Animal Planet Information

SILKY TERRIER BREED

2007-02-23T13:10:00.000+05:30

Size: Small

Height: About 23 cm (9 inches)

Weight: 3.6 – 4.5 kg (8 – 10 lb)

Life Span: 14 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Undemanding

Temperament: Friendly & alert

Country of Origin: Australia

AKC Group: Toy

Other Names: Australian Silky Terrier, Sidney Silky

Temperament: The Silky Terrier is friendly, affectionate, intelligent and alert. Silky Terriers are ideally suited as household pets for both children and the elderly. They thrive on praise, but can become possessive of the family. Silky Terriers are full of character and can produce a lot of noise for their small size.
Grooming:The longer coat of the Silky Terrier does require regular grooming and occasional trimming to keep it looking at it's best. The Silky Terrier has the advantage of not shedding seasonally like many other breeds and also tend to be odourless.
Exercise:These small dogs adapt themselves to their family's circumstances to fulfill their exercise needs.
History: Originally known as the Sydney Silky. The name was changed to Silky Terrier in 1955. It is believed the breed evolved from a combination of the Australian Terrier and the Yorkshire Terrier. At the 1907 Sydney Royal Easter Show there were 31 Silky Terriers entered and from that time on, the popularity of this breed remained fairly constant.
Physical Characteristics:
General Appearance: Sharp-featured, silky and compact.Color: Rich blue or grey blue. Tan on the muzzle, ears and legs. The topknot is silver blue or fawn. Under 18 months the coat is usually darker. Coat: Adult length is 13-15cm (5-6 inches). The hair is short on the muzzle and legs. The coat is fine, glossy and silky.Tail: Customarily docked and stands erect.Ears: Pointed and V-shaped.Body: Moderately deep and broad chest. Moderately long and level back, that is slightly longer than the height.

Silky Terrier
Picture Gallery 1

AMERICAN BULLDOG

2007-02-23T12:58:00.000+05:30

Temperament:

The American Bulldog is confident, gentle, fearless, determined and
protective. American Bulldogs should not be overly aggressive with other
dogs depsite their self-confidence and bravery. These dogs genuinely love
children and have strong protective instincts towards their handler and
family. To prevent American Bulldogs from becoming overly protective or
dominant they need to be socialized with a variety of animals, people and
situations during puppyhood. They tend to be reserved towards strangers and
make excellent watchdogs and guard dogs. American Bulldogs make truly
devoted and loving pets when they receive proper training and socialization
from an early age.

Grooming:

American Bulldogs don't need much grooming except when the coat is shedding.
During these times the coat should be brushed regularly with a firm bristle
brush to remove the dead hairs.

Exercise:

American Bulldogs are extremely energetic and need plenty of
exercise. They enjoy long walks, jogging, playing catch or participating in
agility trials. If American Bulldogs receive adequate daily exercise they
should be calm when indoors.

History:

In the 1800s a number of European immigrants brought the original type of
Bulldog from England to the United States. These Bulldogs had been used for
bull baiting in England until this brutal sport became illegal. As a result
these dogs disappeared from Britain and made their way to America with
working class immigrants. These dogs were used to work with livestock, but
almost became extinct by the end of World War II. It was John Johnson, Alan
Scott and some other dedicated breeders who managed to revive this breed and
develop the American Bulldog from them.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Sturdy, athletic,
powerful, muscular and hardy.

Color: Any color, color pattern, or combination of colors
is acceptable, except for solid black, solid blue, and tricolor (white
with patches of black and tan).

Coat: Short, close, and stiff to touch.

Tail: Set low, tapering and can either be natural or
docked (a natural tail is preferred).

Ears: Set high, of medium size and may be dropped,
semi-pricked or rose-shaped. The ears may be cropped but natural ears are
preferred.

Body: The chest is deep and moderately wide with well
sprung ribs. The back is broad and muscular with the topline slightly
declining downwards. The loin is short, broad, and slightly arched,
blending into a moderately sloping croup. The flank is moderately tucked
up and firm.

Additional Comments:

The American Bulldog is higher on the leg and more agile
than the English Bulldog. Some of these dogs are reportedly able to leap
six feet or more into the air.

The American Bulldog should not be confused with uniquely different
breeds such as the American Staffordshire Terrier or the American Pit Bull
Terrier.

American Bulldog Picture
Gallery 1

Labrador Retriever Training Product Reviews

2007-02-23T12:37:00.000+05:30

Hi
there! My name is Julia I am an editor of Dooziedog.com, this site provides free
dog breed information and a large collection of free pictures for all dog
lovers.

Below is a side-by-side comparison of 5 Labrador
Retriever training products that we have found online. They give you instant
access to tried and proven Labrador training and behavioral programs. I highly
recommend

Sit Stay Fetch by Daniel Stevens. This book is very well written with a
clear step by step guide and he also provides excellent customer support if any
of your questions are not covered by the book.

I used Sit Stay Fetch to help me train my new
puppy Lucy. Previously I had been using common techniques that seemed to take
forever to work, but with Daniel Steven's techniques I managed to house train
Lucy in two weeks! So whatever your Labrador Retriever problems are, Sit Stay
Fetch will solve it.

Alligator/Crocodile

2007-01-19T19:53:00.000+05:30

Broadly rounded snout distinguishes it from crocodiles. Fourth tooth on each side of lower jaw is hidden when mouth is closed. Young are black with yellowish cross-bars. Mature alligators are coal black when wet, dark gray when dry. Males are 11 to 12 feet long and weigh 450-550 pounds. Females are no longer than 9 feet and weigh about 160 pounds. Record length is 20 feet.
II. GEOGRAPHICAL RANGE AND HABITAT:
North Carolina to Florida Keys and west to central Texas. Lacking the salt-removing glands found in crocodiles they live in fresh water swamps and waterways only. When given protection, alligator populations rebound and soon reoccupy areas where they have long been absent.
III. DIET:
Large stomach. Carnivorous. Eats fish, snakes, frogs, turtles, Birds, and mammals such as muskrats, deer and cows. Big animals are dragged underwater and drowned and then torn to pieces. They are very efficient metabolically; even a big alligator can get by on about 50 pounds of food a year. Eats little or nothing from early October to late March. Feeds heavily during summer to store fat. Newborn starts feeding at once, eating small fishes and water insects.
IV. LIFE CYCLE/SOCIAL STRUCTURE:
Female builds nest of vegetable debris 4-7 feet in diameter and 2-3 feet high. Courtship begins in April. Mating takes place in water after courtship displays by males. One display, known as the "water dance" is characterized by "fizzing" water around a male's torso, produced by a loud subsonic call. Female constructs a nest of rotting vegetation and lays about 45 hard-shelled white eggs slightly larger than hen’s eggs from late May through June. Nine week incubation. Female guards nest until babies call, then tears the nest open and cracks unhatched eggs with her teeth. She takes them to water and often remains with them. Young are about 9 inches at hatching, weighing 2 ounces. Growth is rapid: one foot in length for each of the first six years. Young alligators are preyed upon by others of their kind and by large fish, turtles, snakes, herons, raccoons, and black bears. They probably live 50-60 years.
V. SPECIAL ADAPTATIONS:
All alligators bask, smaller ones most frequently. They hunt and feed at night. In winter, they bury themselves in mud, go into deep burrows or remain resting underwater with their nostrils above water and their breath keeping an air hole in the ice. Alligators can withstand cold better than crocodiles.
Internal temperature may drop to 5 deg C. (41 deg F) from a temperature usually around 33 deg C. (91 deg F).
Voice: American Alligators are the best vocalizers of the crocodilians. Adults have a throaty, bellowing roar with great carrying power. When alligators congregate in breeding groups in early spring, bellowing horuses can last from ten minutes to half an hour. Low growls are used during aggressive interactions. All sizes hiss when approached by an intruder. Female grunts like a pig in calling her young. Hatchlings and juveniles use a variety of grunts in many social situations. They also vocalize with infrasound, below the range of human hearing.
VI. INTERPRETIVE INFORMATION:
The name alligator comes from the Spanish EL lagarto which means "the lizard&". Muscles that close jaws are very strong, measured to be about 3.5 metric tons, but once shut a man can easily hold them closed with his bare hands. Alligators are grown on ranches in the U.S. as a commercial venture. How high an alligator floats and how fast it swims can act as social signals to others.
VII. STATUS IN WILD:
Crocodilians have had little competition in their niche as amphibious predator and have had 200 million years of success. However, overhunting by humans has caused some species to be in danger of extinction. The American Alligator was once considered endangered, but after protection populations have recovered and hunting is now permitted in some states. In 1989 this alligator was listed as "at present endangered".

Icterus in the Dog

2007-01-19T19:24:00.000+05:30

What is icterus?Icterus is also known as jaundice or yellow jaundice. It means that a yellow pigment is found in the blood and in the tissues. It is most easily seen in the gingiva (gums), the sclerae (white part of the eyes), and the pinnae (ear flaps). If these tissues normally have a dark color, icterus will probably not be seen.What causes icterus?The causes of icterus fall into three major categories:
1. Destruction of red blood cells. The process of red cell destruction is known as hemolysis. It can occur within blood vessels (intravascular) or in the spleen and liver (extravascular).2. Liver disease. Any disease that causes destruction of liver cells or causes bile to become trapped in the liver can cause icterus.3. Obstruction of the bile duct. The bile duct carries an important fluid for digestion, bile, from the gall bladder to the small intestine. Obstruction can occur within the gall bladder or anywhere along the bile duct.
How is the exact cause determined?Within each category listed above are several possible causes. Determining the cause of icterus requires a series of tests. Some of these tests determine which category is involved. Once that is known, other tests are done to look for a specific disease which is leading to the icteric state.What tests determine hemolysis?Since hemolysis results in red blood cell destruction, determination of red blood cell numbers is one of the first tests performed on the icteric patient. There are three tests that may be used for this. The red blood cell count is an actual machine count of red blood cells. The packed cell volume (PCV) is a centrifuge-performed test that separates the red blood cells from the serum or plasma (the liquid parts of the blood). The hematocrit is another way to determine if there is a reduced number of red blood cells. All three of these tests are part of a complete blood count (CBC).What causes hemolysis?Hemolysis can be caused by toxic plants, or drugs, parasites on the red blood cells, heartworms, autoimmune diseases, and cancer. Several tests are needed to determine which of these is the cause.What tests determine the presence of liver disease?A chemistry profile is performed on dogs with icterus. This is a group of 20-30 tests that are performed on a blood sample. The chemistry profile contains several tests that are specific for liver disease. The main ones are the alanine aminotransferase (ALT), aspartate aminotransferase (AST), alkaline phosphatase (ALP), and total bilirubin. If these tests are normal, and there is reason to suspect liver disease, a bile acid analysis is performed.Although each of these look at the liver from a slightly different perspective, ultimately they only determine that liver disease is occurring. None of them are able to determine the exact cause of the disease. To make that determination, a biopsy of the liver is necessary. This can be done in three ways.
1. Fine-needle aspirate. To perform this procedure, a small gauge needle is inserted through the skin into the liver. A syringe is used to aspirate some cells from the liver. The cells are placed on a glass slide, stained, and studied under a microscope. This is the least invasive and quickest test, but it has certain limitations. Because only a few cells are obtained, it is possible that a representative sample from the liver will not be obtained. It is also not possible to view the cells in their normal relationship to each other (i.e., tissue architecture). Some diseases can be diagnosed with this technique, and others cannot.2. Needle biopsy. This procedure is similar to the fine-needle aspirate except a much larger needle is used. This needle is able to recover a core of tissue, not just a few cells. The sample is fixed in formaldehyde and submitted to a pathologist for analysis. General anesthesia is required, but the dog is anesthetized for only a very short period of time. If it is done properly and with a little luck, this procedure will recover a very meaningful sample. The veterinarian cannot choose the exact site of the liver to biopsy because the liver is not visible. It is still possible to miss the abnormal tissue.3. Surgical wedge biopsy. The dog is placed under general anesthesia, and the abdomen is opened surgically. This permits direct visualization of the liver so the exact site for biopsy can be chosen. A piece of the liver is surgically removed using a scalpel. This approach gives the most reliable biopsy sample, but the stress of surgery and the expense are the greatest of all of the biopsy methods.
What causes liver disease?The most common causes of liver disease include bacterial infections, viral infections, toxic plants, chemicals, or drugs, cancer, autoimmune diseases, and certain breed-specific liver diseases.What tests determine bile duct obstruction?Dogs with obstructed bile ducts are usually extremely icteric. Their yellow color can often be seen readily in the skin, as well as the sclerae and gingiva. An evaluation of the gall bladder and bile duct is necessary to be sure that obstruction is present.An ultrasound examination is the most accurate non-invasive way to evaluate the gall bladder and bile duct. This technology uses sound waves to look at the liver, gall bladder, and bile duct. If this is not available, radiographs (x-rays) should be taken of the liver. Sometimes exploratory surgery is necessary to properly evaluate the dog for biliary obstruction.What causes bile duct obstruction?The most common causes of bile duct obstruction include pancreatitis, trauma, cancer, gall bladder stones, and severely thickened bile.How is icterus treated?Icterus is not a disease; it is a sign that disease is present. There is not a specific treatment for icterus. Icterus will resolve when the disease that causes it is cured.The basis for resolving icterus is to diagnose the underlying disease. When the proper testing is done, this is usually possible. Then, treatment can begin.

Giardia in Dogs

2007-01-19T19:23:00.000+05:30

What are Giardia? Giardia are sometimes confused with worms because they invade the gastrointestinal tract and can cause diarrhea. They are not worms; instead, they are one-celled parasites classified as protozoa. Most dogs that are infected with Giardia do not have diarrhea or any other signs of illness. When the eggs (cysts) are found in the stool of a dog without diarrhea, they are generally considered a transient, insignificant finding. In puppies and debilitated adult dogs, they may cause severe, watery diarrhea that may be fatal. How did my dog get Giardia? A dog becomes infected with Giardia when he swallows the cyst stage of the parasite. Once inside the dog's intestine, the cyst goes through several stages of maturation. Eventually, the dog is able to pass infective cysts in the stool. These cysts lie in the environment and can infect other dogs. They may also be transmitted through drinking infected water. How is giardiasis diagnosed? Giardiasis is diagnosed by performing a microscopic examination of a stool sample. The cysts are quite small and usually require a special floatation medium for detection, so they are not normally found on routine fecal examinations. Occasionally, the parasites may be seen on a direct smear of the feces. A blood test is also available for detection of antigens (cell proteins) of Giardia in the blood. This test is probably more accurate than the stool exam, but it requires several days to get a result from the laboratory performing the test. How is giardiasis treated? The typical drug used to kill Giardia is metronidazole, an antibiotic-type drug. It is given for 5-7 days. Other drugs are also used if diarrhea and dehydration occur. If metronidazole is not effective, others are available. Can humans become infected with Giardia? Giardia can also cause diarrhea in humans. Environmental disinfection is very important. The use of chlorine bleach, one cup in a gallon (500 ml in 4 liters) of water, is effective if the surfaces and premises can be safely treated with it.

Outside Dogs

2007-01-19T19:17:00.000+05:30

By Dennis Fetko, PhD2
Reprinted from August 1995 Whiskers & Wags
Halifax Humane Society Newsletter

I'm familiar with hundreds of dog breeds, but what's an outside dog?

Unless you're medically intolerant of the dog (and, therefore, can't take care of him in a medical emergency - so you shouldn't have the dog anyway), making a dog stay outside is a costly waste.

If he's for protection, what do you think I want to steal - your lawn? When you leave, do you put your valuables and your kids out in your yard? Just what is the dog protecting out there? Most dogs kept outside cause far more nuisance complaints from barking and escaping than any deterrent to intrusion.

Such complaints cause teasing, antagonism, release, and poisoning. With your dog a helpless victim, it's no laughing matter.

If I'm a crook and your dog is out, your fence protects ME, not your possessions or your dog. If I just open the gate, 9 out of 10 dogs will run off! I can safely shoot, stab, spear, poison, snare, strangle them, or dart through the fence; and you just lost your dog AND everything I steal!

If he's tied up and I keep out of reach, he's useless. He'll bark, but outside dogs bark so much, they're usually ignored. But let a dog hit the other side of a door or window I'm breaking into, and I'm GONE! I can't hurt the dog until he can hurt me, and nothing you own is worth my arm. Deterrence is effective protection.

Protection and aggression are not the same. Protection is defensive, reactive, often passive, and threatens or injures no one. Aggression is active, harmful and offensive, threatens all and benefits none. Yard dogs often develop far more aggression than protectivity because everyone who passes by or enters has already violated the territory that dog has marked dozens of times a day for years. That's not protection, it's not desirable and it overlooks two facts of life today:

First, property owners have implied social contracts with others in the community. Letter carriers, paper boys, delivery people, law enforcement, emergency medical personnel, meter readers and others are allowed near and at times on your property without your specific permission. And sure that ten-year-old was not supposed to jump your fence after his Frisbee; but neither you nor your dog are allowed to cause him injury if he does. Imagine this: A neighbor looks into your yard or window and sees you, your wife, or child laying on the floor in a pool of blood. They call 911 and your dog prevents paramedics from assisting! Should they shoot your dog or just let you die? Great choice.

Second, even if the intruder is a criminal, few places allow you or your dog to cause physical injury to prevent property loss. Convicted felons have sued the dog's owner from jail and won more in the suit than they ever could have stolen!
Appalling? True.

And don't be foolish enough to believe your homeowner's insurance will cover the loss. Now you see why many feel that an outside dog is a no-brainer.

The more a dog is outdoors, the less behavioral control you have. It's easier to solve four or five indoor problems than one outdoor problem. The reason is valid and simple: The more you control the stimuli that reaches your dog, the more you control the responses. You've got a lot more control over your living room than you do over your entire county! When your dog is bored, but teased by every dog, cat, bird, squirrel, motorcycle, paperboy, airplane, firecracker and backfiring truck in the county, OF COURSE he'll dig, chew, and bark. Would you sit still all day everyday? Do you want unnecessary medical and parasite fees, especially as the dog ages?

When a dog is alone indoors, you are still 30% there because your scent and things he associates with you constantly remind the dog of you and your training. When he's out, your dog is alone whether you're home or not. Do you really expect him to keep YOU in mind while the entire world teases, distracts and stimulates him?

The media is full of stories about the family dog saving everyone's life during a fire. How many people, including children, would be dead today if those dogs were kept outside? SURE - you ALWAYS get up to investigate every time your yard dog barks. And I've got this bridge...

An outdoor dog has an address, not a home. Dogs offer real value as companion animals. Stop behavior problems and start enjoying real protection and companionship. Bring your dogs inside.

Controlling Pulling, Lunging, Chasing, and Jumping Up

2007-01-19T12:11:00.000+05:30

Why do dogs tend to pull, chase and forge ahead? Dogs tend to pull ahead and lunge forward for a number of reasons. Dogs that are particularly exploratory, playful, or investigative pull the guardians down the street as they investigate their environment or are attracted to appealing stimuli (e.g. children, other dogs). As you pull backwards in an attempt to restrain your dog, he/she resists further by pulling forward even harder, since most dogs tend to pull against pressure. Dogs that are aggressive to stimuli (e.g. children, other dogs), and those that have the urge to chase or heel (e.g. joggers, cyclists) are likely to pull ahead in an attempt to chase. In addition, dogs that are restricted or restrained by a leash may be more likely to exhibit defensive aggression. Those dogs that are fearful or otherwise reluctant to leave home may be pulling and forge ahead on their way back home. How can pulling and forging ahead be controlled? It is a shame when guardians are unable to engage in the simple joy of walking their dog due to extreme leash pulling. The dog should be taught through obedience training, lures and rewards to respond to the heel command. Training should begin in an environment where success can be ensured. Using a control mechanism (leash and collar, leash and head halter), and highly motivating rewards, the dog should first be taught to walk at the guardian’s side. During the first few training sessions distractions should be avoided so that the rewards and motivation keep the dog’s interest and attention. If the dog begins to pull ahead, pulling backwards on the leash and a neck collar, leads to resistance from the dog, causing the dog to lunge forward more intensely. It is best to take 1-2 steps at a time and keep your dog in the correct position, rather than trying to accomplish a long walk. As the dog learns where to be in relation to the guardian, gradually walk a few more steps. Set the dog up to succeed. This can often be accomplished using a food reward held at thigh level to keep the dog’s nose in position. The head halter is one of the best means of gaining immediate control. When the dog is wearing a head halter and pulls ahead, a pull on the leash will cause your dog’s head to turn toward you. Then by pulling upwards and forward, the dog will pull backwards into a sit. Quickly release tension and reward. In order to teach the dog to walk by your side, it is generally most successful if the dog is first taught to follow. First, teach the dog to follow you out the door. Have the dog sit and stay and then open the front door. If the dog begins to run out pull up and forward so that the dog returns to the sit, and release. Walk slowly forward so that you are between the dog and the door, slowly lengthening the leash while the dog remains in place but leaving no more than an inch or two of slack. Provided the dog does not forge ahead, step through the door and then allow the dog to follow up to (but not past) you. Proceed onto the porch and down onto the yard with the dog following. Any time the dog begins to step or forge past, the leash can be pulled up and forward so that the dog backs up, and released immediately when the dog is in place. Although the dog could be made to sit each time it pulls forward, the goal is to have the dog back up just far enough that it remains at your side. The tension on the leash is then released and the dog is encouraged to walk forward. In short, pulling tends leads to tension, while walking at your side earns release (ie a slack leash). If the dog puts on the brakes and will not follow, a tendency is to pull ahead, but, as mentioned, dogs tend to resist by pulling in the opposite direction. To get the dog up and following, loosen the slack on the lead and encourage the dog to follow verbally or with food prompts. Once you have the dog successfully heeling in the yard with no distractions, you can proceed to the front yard and the street while there are still no distractions. With practice, strong motivators and the use of the head halter, the dog can then gradually be walked in the presence of stimuli that might otherwise cause lunging and forging, such as other dogs, cyclists, or children playing. Another solution is to use a no pull harnesses. These devices fit around the dog’s body and around the forelegs so that when the dog forges ahead the forelegs and body can be controlled. Although these harnesses do not provide the level of control afforded by the head halter, compared to head halters, they require little or no training and do provide immediate control of pulling. My dog chases and I am worried he will get hurt. What can I do? Chasing and running after prey, nipping at heels and herding are normal dog behaviors. These behaviors are more strongly motivated in some breeds of dogs than others. In addition, some dogs may be motivated to chase intruders (people, other dogs) from their property and, when the intruders leave, the behavior may appear to the dog to have been successful. This usually results in the dog continuing in the chase behaviors. In order to control chase behaviors, it is necessary to train the dog to do something different than it was doing before. It is not enough to yell NO and punish the dog. This alone will not stop a behavior that has a strong motivation, but may cause the dog to be more anxious or fearful about the stimulus which would INCREASE the problem. First, let’s talk about prevention of chasing behaviors. Once you have witnessed the young dog engaging in an inappropriate chase, now is the time to start training. Get a leash on the dog and teach it to sit and stay. Then present the dog with the distraction that it would normally chase and reward the dog for good behavior. Remember, when off the leash the dog may revert to its old habits. Therefore, try to avoid those situations until you feel confident that the dog will behave. Once the dog has been engaging in chase behaviors for some time, it will be more difficult to stop the behavior. The very fact that the object the dog chases runs, is reinforcement enough. A program of desensitization and counter-conditioning is needed to correct the problem. This consists of teaching the dog to sit and stay for rewards while gradually introducing objects that the dog chases. It will be necessary to first start with objects the dog is unlikely to chase and progress to more tempting items. If the problem is severe, a consultation with a behaviorist may be necessary. Control with a head halter and leash often is the most practical and most successful at ensuring that the dog will sit and stay in the presence of the stimulus. The use of highly motivating rewards (favored food treats, favored toys) can also be used to lure the dog into a sit and given as a reward for staying. My dog charges the door and jumps on people who enter my home. What can I do? Another behavior that causes problems for guardians is door charging. Door charging is the behavior of the dog speeding to the door whenever anyone knocks or rings the bell. To deal with this problem start by teaching the dog to sit and stay for a food reward in the entry area. Gradually phase out food treats when the behavior is learned and can be reliably repeated. Next you may need to practice with family members entering the home. Finally, when the dog has mastered the task with people he knows, practice with visitors, keeping the dog on a leash and making it sit and stay. Again, a leash and head halter is an excellent way to control the dog and train it not to chase or jump up when people come to the door. Always require your dog to sit before it gets petted and you can go along way to eliminating jumping behavior. If the dog has never even practiced the task without distractions, how can you expect the dog to perform the task when visitors come over? If door charging behavior is coupled with aggression, you should seek the help of a behaviorist. How can I prevent my dog from jumping up on others and me? For many dogs, jumping up on people is part of their greeting routine. Often, guardians have tried to discourage this behavior using methods such as squeezing the front feet, stepping on the dog’s toes, or kneeing the dog in the chest. Yet the behavior continues. If that is the case with your dog, then it is important to think about what might be motivating the dog to jump up and what is the reinforcement for the behavior continuing. Usually the motivation for the jumping up behavior is to greet people. Many dogs like to greet face to face, like they do with their canine counterparts. People, however, find this objectionable. Correction must not be directed at punishing the problem, but rather finding a means of teaching the dog an appropriate greeting posture. This usually is a sit/stay, which can then be rewarded with food and attention. Once the dog has perfected this without people there and practiced it with family members, the dog is ready to try with visitors. Make the dog sit and stay while people come and hand the dog a treat. If the dog gets up, then put him back in the sit and try again. Often placing a treat jar by the front door with a bell on it will help. Once the dog associates the bell on the jar with a treat, and a treat with a sit/stay, the dog will be more likely to perform the task. Another way to train this behavior is to set up visitors to come to your home. Have the first person come to the door and instruct your dog to sit and stay. Then, let them in. Hopefully with some effort you will get your dog to continue to sit. Have the person enter, give a treat and sit down. After 5 minutes, have them leave out the back door, come to the front and enter again. This second entry should go easier as your dog will have just seen the person. If you can repeat this 4-6 times for each visitor, the dog will have plenty of opportunity to learn the new task. Once you understand the motivation, and have trained a new task, you need to be sure you have identified all the reinforcement for the behavior. If the dog succeeds in getting any attention for the jumping behavior, then the dog will continue to jump. Attention may be petting, pushing away (which resembles play behavior), and even mild reprimands can be reinforcing for a dog who really wants attention. To change this behavior you need to remove ALL reinforcement. This may mean that you do not look, speak, touch or interact with the dog IN ANY WAY when he jumps on you. Walk by the dog, give a command such as sit, but do not interact with the dog. Alternately, you could try punishment to see if you can disrupt the behavior just as it begins. To use punishment for jumping up, you need to be able to QUICKLY AND HUMANELY interrupt the behavior. This is often best done with some type of device that makes a loud noise. Shake cans, rape alarms, and air horns, all make loud noises that will often startle the dog. As soon as the dog hesitates, you need to give the dog an alternative command so that the dog can do the proper thing and then reward the dog with praise. So, as you administer the noise, you say SIT and when the dog sits you reward him with praise and food treats if available. Many dogs soon learn that to avoid the noise, they need to sit and will do so to greet you. Then have the person leave, and reenter the home, using the device and command if the dog does not immediately sit, and a good sit and reward as soon as the dog does sit. Continue to have the person leave and reenter until the dog sits for him reward without hesitating. Another method that is consistently successful at deterring and preventing the jumping up, is to leave a leash and head halter on the dog during greeting. All it takes is stepping on the leash or a quick sharp pull to prevent or disrupt the jumping up. Again, be certain to reward non-jumping behavior. Some people like to allow the dog to jump up on them at certain times. You must never allow the dog to choose the time. Ideally you should teach your dog to jump up on command such as "Give me a hug" or "Come up here." This way, you have the behavior under verbal control and you decide when the dog will be allowed to jump up.

Fears and Phobias of Animals and People

2007-01-19T12:08:00.000+05:30

My dog seems to be afraid of people and or other animals-why might that be? There are many reasons that dogs can develop a fear of people. There may have been limited or minimal exposure to people and/or other animals when the dog was young. Socialization is an important aspect of raising a puppy. Without adequate, constant and positive interactions with people and other animals dogs may develop fears. In fact, fears may be very specific so that a dog that has been adequately socialized to a particular type of person such as adult males may show fear toward children, men, women, teenagers, or people of other races. Similarly, dogs that are well socialized to other dogs may show fear toward other animals. Dogs are impressionable and through the effect of "one trial learning" may take one experience that was intense or traumatic and generalize to many similar situations. This can occur for example with a bad experience with a small child which then makes the dog fearful of all small children, or a fight and subsequent injury from other dogs. Sometimes a number of unpleasant events associated with a person or animal can lead to increasing fear. For example, if a pet is punished (especially with a painful device such as a pinch or shock collar) when he is exposed to a person or other animal, he may begin to pair the stimulus (the person or other animal) with the unpleasant consequence (punishment). This is especially true with the use of a painful device such as a pinch or shock collar. Can I prevent fears from developing? Socialization is the cornerstone to raising a dog that is comfortable with people. Early, frequent, and pleasant encounters with people of all ages and types can help prevent fears later. This exposure should begin before 3 months of age and continue throughout the first year. In addition, the dog should be exposed to as many different environments, sights and sounds as possible so that he becomes accustomed early, before fears emerge. What signs might my dog show when she is afraid? When frightened, a dog may cower, look away, tuck his tail and perhaps tremble or pant. At other times the signs may be subtler. A dog may only duck his head and look away, and tolerate petting at first, but then snap. It is important to watch your dog for signs of uneasiness such as backing up, hiding behind you and licking of the lips. Naturally growling, or snarling would indicate aggression, but may also indicate fear. What information do I need to identify and treat my fearful pet? Usually a behavioral consultation is needed for dogs that are showing extreme fears and/or aggression. If the fears are mild, then guardian intervention may help and prevent them from progressing. It is important to identify what is the fearful stimulus. This is not always easy and needs to be very exact. What persons or animals is the dog afraid of and where does the fearful behavior occur? Often there are certain situations, people, and places, which provoke the behavior more than others. For treatment to be most successful, it is important to be able to place the fearful stimuli along a gradient from low to high. In other words, you want to identify those situations, people, places and animals that are likely to cause minimal fear as well as those situations, people, places and animals that are most likely to cause the fearful behaviors. Next, you need to also examine what factors may be reinforcing the behavior. Some guardians actually reward the fearful behavior by reassuring their pets with vocal intonations or body contact. Aggressive displays are a successful way of getting the fearful stimulus to leave and thus also reinforce the behaviors. Any ongoing interactions that are fear provoking need to be identified. This could be teasing behaviors, painful interactions including the use of punishment, or overwhelming stimuli. After I have identified the stimuli, what do I do next? Before a behavior modification program can begin, you need to be able to control and communicate with your dog. This will require some training. Often in addition, a head collar will be needed. Head collars allow control of the dog’s head and neck to ensure that the dog responds to the given command (sit, quiet, heel). To make the dog feel more secure by knowing who is the leader, orient the dog away from the stimulus, and prevent the dog from either causing injury or escaping. Next, teach your dog that when he sits and stays, he will receive a delicious food reward. The goal of this training is to allow the dog to assume a relaxed and happy body posture and facial expression on command. Once this is established, then food rewards are phased out. Lastly, begin counter-conditioning and desensitization to acclimate the dog to the stimuli that usually cause the fearful response. This needs to be done slowly. This is where the gradient that you established earlier becomes helpful. Start by exposing the dog to very low levels of the stimulus; in fact, ones that do not evoke fear. The dog is then rewarded for sitting quietly and calmly. Gradually, if the dog exhibits no fear, the stimulus intensity is increased. It is extremely important that this is done slowly. The goal is to reward good behavior, and teach the dog how to associate the once fearful stimulus with calmness and rewards. If the dog begins to show fear during training, he is progressing too fast and could be making the problem worse. Always set up the dog to succeed. The use of the leash and head collar can greatly improve the chances of success and, because of the additional control, will often help the guardian to succeed in getting the dog's attention and calming him down, faster than with commands and rewards alone. But my dog may still encounter the fearful stimulus when we are not in a training exercise. What should I do then? Each time the dog experiences the fearful stimulus and reacts with fear, the behavior is further aggravated. If possible, it is helpful to try and avoid the fear-producing stimulus. This may mean confining the dog when children visit or the house is full of strangers. Alternately, walks may need to be curtailed or scheduled at times when encounters with other people and animals can be minimized. If you do find yourself in a situation where the dog is responding fearfully, you should refrain from using reassuring vocal intonation and body contact. This does not "soothe the savage beast" but serves as reinforcement. As long as the dog is wearing a leash and head halter, he may be reoriented to face the guardian, respond to a pull and sit command, and learn to ignore or accept the approaching stimulus. Only if the dog cannot escape and can be made to calm down before the stimulus leaves, will the dog learn that the stimulus is not to be feared and will do no harm.

Gastrointestinal Endoscopy in Dogs

2007-01-19T12:01:00.000+05:30

Your dog has been scheduled for an endoscopic examination. The purpose of this procedure is to make a diagnosis of the disease which has been causing your pet’s clinical signs of vomiting, diarrhea, or both. What is an endoscope and how is it used? An endoscope is a flexible tube that is inserted into either the stomach or the colon or both. As it passes toward the stomach, the esophagus is also examined. The endoscope permits viewing of the inside of these organs. What types of disease are diagnosed with an endoscopic examination? The endoscope allows full color viewing of the aforementioned organs. Areas of inflammation or ulceration are easily seen. Masses and strictures are also visible. Foreign bodies (bones, toys, rocks, coins, hair balls, etc.) may also be seen. Can viewing an abnormal area render a diagnosis? In most cases, no, though the endoscope has a tiny channel through which a biopsy instrument can be passed. Precise biopsies can be taken of areas of any of these organs that appear abnormal. What do veterinarians do if there are no abnormal areas? Many diseases cause changes that can only be detected by an inspection of the cells. Even if the organ appears normal, biopsies are taken. In most cases, biopsy of the stomach of a vomiting dog or of the colon of a dog with diarrhea will be very helpful in determining if disease is present. What if the problem is in the small intestine? The endoscope can be passed through the valve at the lower end of the stomach (pylorus) and into a short segment of the small intestine (duodenum) in some dogs. This depends on the size of the dog and the size of the endoscope. The vast majority of the small intestine is not accessible to endoscopy. Most diseases of the small intestine require other tests to be diagnosed. Can cancer be diagnosed with endoscopy? In many cases, yes. Some tumors do not affect the lining of the stomach or colon. The biopsy procedure only samples the lining (the mucosa), so it is possible to fail in detecting the presence of a tumor. What steps need to be taken to prepare for endoscopy? It is vital that the inspected organs be empty of food and water. If the stomach is to be examined, withholding food and water for 12 hours is generally sufficient. If the colon is to be examined, oral medication is begun 12-18 hours before the procedure to remove fecal material from the entire intestinal tract. Fasting for 12-18 hours is also vital so new fecal material does not form. On the morning of the procedure, one or more enemas are given to remove any remaining stool from the lower intestinal tract. Is anesthesia required? Yes. Passing an endoscope into a dog’s stomach or colon is not possible in an awake patient. Patient cooperation is vital since the equipment that is used costs several thousands of dollars and is quite fragile. Even for endoscopy of the colon, a short-acting anesthesia is essential. When will I know the results of the examination? Since the organs are viewed in real time, the result of what is seen is known immediately. The diagnosis is not available in many cases until the results of the pathologist’s study of the biopsies are reported. This will vary from a day to a week depending on the location of the pathologist and whether or not special tests are required on the tissue.

Pyometra in Dogs

2007-01-19T11:59:00.000+05:30

What is pyometra?In its simplest terms, pyometra is an infection in the uterus. Most cases of pyometra are much more difficult to manage than a routine infection.Infection in the lining of the uterus is established as a result of hormonal changes. Following estrus (heat), progesterone levels remain elevated for 8-10 weeks and thicken the lining of the uterus in preparation for pregnancy. If pregnancy does not occur for several estrus cycles, the lining continues to increase in thickness until cysts form within it. The thickened, cystic lining secretes fluids that create an ideal environment in which bacteria can grow. Additionally, high progesterone levels inhibit the ability of the muscles in the wall of the uterus to contract.Are there other situations that cause the changes in the uterus?Yes. The use of progesterone-based drugs can do this. Estrogen will increase the effects of progesterone on the uterus. Drugs containing both hormones are used to treat certain conditions of the reproductive system.How do bacteria get into the uterus?The cervix is the gateway to the uterus. It remains tightly closed except during estrus. When it is open, bacteria that are normally found in the vagina can enter the uterus rather easily. If the uterus is normal, the environment is adverse to bacterial survival. When the uterine wall is thickened and cystic, perfect conditions exist for bacterial growth. IWhen these abnormal conditions exist, the muscles of the uterus cannot contract properly. This means that bacteria that enter the uterus cannot be expelled.When does it occur?Pyometra may occur in young to middle-aged dogs, though it is most common in older dogs. After many years of estrus cycles without pregnancy, the uterine wall undergoes the changes that promote this disease.The typical time for pyometra to occur is about 1-2 months following estrus.What are the clinical signs of a dog with pyometra?The clinical signs depend on whether or not the cervix is open. If it is open, pus will drain from the uterus through the vagina to the outside. It is often noted on the skin or hair under the tail or on bedding and furniture where the dog has laid. Fever, lethargy, anorexia, and depression may or may not be present.If the cervix is closed, pus that forms is not able to drain to the outside. It collects in the uterus causing distention of the abdomen. The bacteria release toxins which are absorbed into circulation These dogs often become severely ill very rapidly. They are anorectic, very listless, and very depressed. Vomiting or diarrhea may be present.Toxins from the bacteria affect the kidneys ability to retain fluid. Increased urine production occurs, and the dog drinks an excess of water. This occurs in both open- and closed-cervix pyometra.How is it diagnosed?Dogs that are seen early in the disease may have a slight vaginal discharge and show no other signs of illness. Most dogs with pyometra are not seen until later in the illness. A very ill female dog that is drinking an increased amount of water and has not been spayed is always suspected of having pyometra. This is especially true if there is a vaginal discharge or an enlarged abdomen.Dogs with pyometra have a marked elevation of the white blood cell count and often have an elevation of globulins (a type of protein produced by the immune system) in the blood. The specific gravity of the urine is very low due to the toxic effects of the bacteria on the kidneys. All of these abnormalities may be present in any dog with a major bacterial infection.If the cervix is closed, radiographs (x-rays) of the abdomen will often identify the enlarged uterus. If the cervix is open, there will often be such minimal uterine enlargement that the radiograph will not be conclusive. An ultrasound examination can also be helpful in identifying an enlarged uterus and differentiating that from a normal pregnancy.How is it treated?The preferred treatment is to surgically remove the uterus and ovaries. This is called an ovariohysterectomy (spay). Dogs diagnosed in the early stage of the disease are very good surgical candidates. The surgery is only slightly more complicated than a routine spay. Most dogs are diagnosed when they are quite ill so the surgery is not as routine as the same surgery in a healthy dog. Intravenous fluids are often needed before and after surgery. Antibiotics are given for 1-2 weeks.My dog is a valuable breeding bitch. Can anything else be done other than surgery?There is a medical approach to treating pyometra. Prostaglandins are a group of hormones that reduce the blood level of progesterone, relax and open the cervix, and contract the uterus to expel bacteria and pus. They can be used successfully to treat this disease, but they are not always successful and they have some important limitations.
1. They cause side-effects of restlessness, panting, vomiting, defecation, salivation, and abdominal pain. The side-effects occur within about 15 minutes of an injection and last for a few hours. They become progressively milder with each successive treatment and may be lessened by walking the dog for about 30 minutes following an injection.2. There is no clinical improvement for about 48 hours so dogs that are severely ill are poor candidates.3. Because they contract the uterus, it is possible for the uterus to rupture and spill infection into the abdominal cavity. This is most likely to happen when the cervix is closed.
There are some important statistics that you should know about this form of treatment:
1. The success rate for treating open-cervix pyometra is 75-90%.2. The success rate for treating closed-cervix pyometra is 25-40%.3. The rate of recurrence of the disease is 50-75%.4. The chances of subsequent successful breeding is 50-75%.
What happens if neither of the above treatments are given?The chance of successful treatment without surgery or prostaglandin treatment is extremely low. If treatment is not performed quickly, the toxic effects from the bacteria will be fatal. If the cervix is closed, it is also possible for the uterus to rupture, spilling the infection into the abdominal cavity. This will also be fatal. Spaying your dog will give her and you years of joyful companionship free from disease and pain.

Play and Exercise in Dogs

2007-01-19T11:49:00.000+05:30

Why are play and exercise important? Play with guardians and with other dogs, not only provides the dog with some of its exercise requirements, but also helps to meet social needs. Insufficient exercise can contribute to problem behaviors including destructiveness (chewing and digging), investigative behavior (garbage raiding), hyperactivity, unruliness, excitability, attention-getting behaviors, and even some forms of barking. It is especially important to ensure that a dog’s need for exercise has been met prior to leaving the dog alone at home and prior to lengthy crating or confinement sessions. What are good ways to play with and exercise my dog? Taking your dog for a walk is a good way to accomplish exercise and can be enjoyable and healthy for you as well. From an early age you should acclimate your puppy to a collar and leash. A flat nylon or leather collar is fine. Keep your puppy away from stray dogs and neighborhood parks until all vaccinations are finished. Practice your walking skills in your own yard first. Put your puppy on leash, and with your voice and a small tug, or perhaps a food or toy reward as a prompt, encourage it to follow you. Reward the good behavior with praise. Keep initial walks short to encourage compliance. Playing with your pet is an enjoyable activity for both of you. Not only does the dog get exercise, but positive interactions take place. Training sessions are also an excellent way to gain guardian leadership and control, while providing interaction between you and your pet. How much exercise and play is appropriate? Selecting an appropriate amount and type of play and exercise, will depend firstly on the type of dog. Puppies and even adult dogs from breeds that have been bred for their stamina or to do "work" often have higher exercise requirements. For purebred dogs, consider their traditional work when deciding the type and amount of play to provide. For example, the retrieving breeds do best with lengthy games of fetch or Frisbee, while the sledding breeds might prefer pulling carts, or running or jogging with an active guardian. The length and type of play and exercise for your dog will depend on his behavioral requirements and health limitations. While some dogs may still be ready for more after a 5 mile jog and a game of fetch, others may be tired and satisfied after a short walk around the block. How can I keep my dog occupied when I am away? When you are out, or you are busy at home with other activities and responsibilities, it would be ideal for your dog to be relaxed and sleeping, but this will not always be the case. Exploring the environment, stealing food items, raiding garbage cans, chewing or digging, are just a few of the ways that dogs will find to keep themselves occupied. When you are certain that you have provided your dog with sufficient play and interactive exercise, and you must leave your dog alone, provide sufficient toys and distractions to keep your dog occupied and confine your pet to a safe, dog-proofed area. Some dogs do best when housed with another dog for play and companionship. Others prefer objects to chew, areas to dig, self feeding toys, or even a video to keep themselves occupied and busy while you are unavailable. What type of play should be avoided? Try to avoid games that pit your strength against your puppies or dogs. Tug-of-war games seem to be an enjoyable diversion for many puppies and they do help to direct chewing and biting toward an acceptable play object, rather than a guardian’s hands or clothing. On the other hand, some puppies get very excited, overly stimulated and become far too aggressive during tug-of-war games. A general rule of thumb for tug-of-war (or any other game for that matter) is to avoid it, unless you are the one to initiate the game, and can stop it as soon as the need arises. Teaching the dog to drop on command can help to ensure that you remain in control of object play sessions such as fetch and tug -of -war. Although games like chase are good exercise, they can often result in wild exuberant play that gets out of control. Again, a good rule of thumb is to only play these games, if you are the one to initiate the game, and are capable of stopping the game immediately should it get out of control. Many dogs can be taught to play Hide and Seek without becoming too excited. Other dogs like to search for their toys and bring them to you. How can I teach my dog to play fetch? Most young puppies, even those that do not have an inherent instinct to retrieve, can be taught how to play fetch from an early age. You will need to train your puppy to do three things; go get the toy, bring it back, and relinquish it to you so that you can throw it again. First, make the toy enticing. Try a squeaky toy or a ball. Toss the toy a short distance, 1-2 feet, and encourage your puppy to go to it. When he gets there, praise him. If he picks it up in his mouth, tell him "Good dog." Then move backwards a short way, clap your hands and entice your puppy to come towards you. All the while you should be encouraging verbally with a happy tone of voice and lots of praise. When your puppy returns to you, say Give It or Release and show another toy or even a small food treat. Most puppies will gladly give the toy to get the new toy or treat and at the same time will quickly learn the give or release command. By repeating the entire sequence of events again, the game of fetch itself, should soon be enough of a reward that food and toys will no longer be necessary to entice the puppy to give the toy. At the end of each fetch play session, have the puppy return the toy and give a toy or chew treat for the puppy to play with as a final reward for releasing the toy.

What to feed an Australian Cattle Dog

2007-01-18T20:07:00.000+05:30

As you may know, each breed of dog has its own unique set of nutritional requirements.
Their unique set of nutritional requirements have been passed on from generation to generation just like the breed's unique coat, body size and temperament. We have found that we can not change the genetic makeup of the animals we are feeding just by exposing them to a different diet for a small amount of time. Therefore, I suggest that Australian Cattle Dog owners try to feed their present companion pets with foods that contain what this breed requires. The food should contain: (#1) nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's Australian Cattle Dog and which are easy for them to assimilate) and (#2) the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.
Pet owners who feed their companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year. That is why I recommend that pet owners learn about the nutritional needs of the animal they are feeding before deciding on one of the many foods which are now available. When we first learn what our companion pet needs and then choose a diet that is correct for the animal being fed, it is a win-win situation: the dogs are healthier and the owners save money.
I personally believe that the best diet for an Australian Cattle Dog is one that the owner makes fresh, using quality ingredients, without preservatives. It only takes about one to two hours a week to cook for an Australian Cattle Dog so that both #1 & #2 are met and preparing home cooked meals for a dog can be less expensive than buying the average all-breed, any-breed commercial pet food. I hope that you will consider using this option to feed your companion pets correctly.
In my books (published in 1990 and 1997) on breed specific canine nutrition, I listed food sources to use and food sources to avoid when feeding an Australian Cattle Dog. The idea was to provide pet owners (both those who wanted to cook for their companion pets or those who wanted to buy an all-breed/any-breed preservative filled food for their pets) information about food sources to use or avoid. So that you can have that same information, below is the text from the page "Australian Cattle Dog" that was in one of my books on canine nutrition.
________ text from the Australian Cattle Dog page out of my book on Canine Nutrition ________
AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOGWeight Standards: m/f - 40 to 45 lbs.Height Standards: m/f - 18 to 19 inches Coat: dense in texture, black with tan and white speckleCommon Ailments: dysplasia, hot spots and skin rashes
The Australian Cattle Dog developed in Australia in the early 1800's. This breed can trace its heritage back to being a direct descendant of four specific breeds: the Dingo, the Blue Merle Highland Collie, the Dalmatian and the Black and Tan Kelpie. It originally herded cattle in the rough outback of Australia. Here it developed not only its nutritional requirements but its legendary stamina and endurance.
Native food supplies for this breed would have been those found in the Australian outback (a high desert environment) and would have included ground vegetables, wheat, oats and meats from beef, rabbit, and kangaroo. A special note concerning the meats; all the meats from this area have a very low fat to muscle ratio. For the Australian Cattle dog I recommend low fat / high fiber commercial foods with a blend of beef, corn, and wheat. I also recommend that you avoid feeding an Australian Cattle dog any soy, white rice, beet pulp, poultry or fish.
__________________________end of page from book__________________________
At this web site I have already documented how it has been PROVEN that one breed can require ten times what a different breed requires - PER KILOGRAM OF BODY WEIGHT - of fat soluble vitamin "D" and thus a product formulated for the breed with the higher requirements would be toxic to the breed with lower requirements.
I am also providing you with information about which sources of vitamins and minerals are best for an Australian Cattle Dog because it has also been proven that different breeds will assimilate different sources of vitamins and minerals in different ways. i.e. There are over 170 different molecular forms of the mineral "calcium." The source of the mineral calcium that an Australian Cattle Dog can easily assimilate can be hard for a different breed to assimilate and thus that other breed can develop kidney stones on the best source of calcium for the Australian Cattle Dog. The reverse of this is also true. Below you will find a list of the best sources of vitamins and minerals for the dietary requirements of the Australian Cattle Dog. The balance or amounts are not listed because each individual animal can have different requirements depending on: the sex of the animal; the age (a puppy will have different needs than an adolescent, who even though it may be the same size as an adult will have different requirements than an adult); the activity level (if a dog is very active the dog will need more of the B complex than a couch potato of the same breed); stress levels; medical conditions; and other dietary factors (i.e. does the water supply contain high amounts of minerals). There are many factors come into play when considering the proper amount of each nutrient in an individual dogs diet.
PLEASE NOTE: Some breeds, because of their breed specific set of nutritional requirements, should have very low amounts of some vitamins or minerals in their diet. The amount that some breeds require may have already been exceeded by the amount that is in most all-breed/any-breed commercial foods (i.e. copper - Bedlington Terrier or zinc - Siberian Husky). This is another reason that I have not listed any amounts here - I do not want dog owners to supplement what may already be TOO MUCH in an all breed food with additional vitamins or minerals just because I listed an amount here. The list below is for SOURCE information only.
________ the best vitamin and mineral sources to feed an Australian Cattle Dog ________
Vitamin & Best SourceVitamin A Beta CaroteneVitamin B-1 Thiamine Mononitrate & YeastVitamin B-2 Riboflavin & YeastVitamin B-6 Pyridoxine Hcl & YeastVitamin B-12 Cyanocobalamin & YeastVitamin D D-activated SterolVitamin E dl-alpha tocopherol acetateNiacinamideBiotinFolic Acidd-Calcium PantothenatePara Amino Benzoic AcidMineral & Best Source Calcium Bone Meal & di-Cal PhosCopper GluconateIodine Sea KelpIron Ferrous FumerateMagnesium Magnesium-GluconateManganese Manganese-GluconatePhosphorus Bone Meal & di-Cal PhosPotassium Potassium-GluconateZinc Zinc-Gluconate
Please do not feed this breed of dog any supplemental vitamin C (ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate or ascorbal palmitate) because of the kidney and liver damage it can do (see article at this web site).
__________________________end of list of best vitamin/mineral sources __________________________
Please Note: I have received many E-mails from dog owners asking if the book that is now available in book stores contains recipes or supplement charts for the average puppy, adolescent, adult or geriatric Australian Cattle Dog. It does not. It only contains one recipe and that recipe is there to show how a pet owner can take the ingredients listed on a bag of grocery store dog food and make the food cheaper, from fresh whole sources and without any harmful preservatives. I do not recommend that recipe for any one specific breed of dog (especially an Australian Cattle Dog). I am planning to include recipes and supplement charts for Australian Cattle Dogs in my next book and hopefully that book will be ready to be published within the next year.
If you can not wait for my next book to be published and want to start cooking nutritious preservative free food for a special companion pet I would be happy to prepare a recipe for you to use (for a small fee). Over the last 30 years many dog lovers have asked me to develop a diet for a specific companion pet or their entire kennel of dogs. I have formulated thousands of dog specific (more than just breed specific)diets and I would be willing to do this for your companion pet.
To have me prepare a custom recipe and supplement chart for a dog I need the following information:
The breed of dog:
The sex:
The age:
The weight:
The activity level:
The source of water:
Information about the dog's living environment:
Information about the dog's medical history:
Please be specific since all these factor into the nutritional requirements of a dog. I ask that you send me as much information as possible to work with and please be patient, the average turn around time (from the time I receive what I need to formulate a custom recipe, to the time the packet is ready to be E-mailed to you) is 5 to 7 days. I formulate these recipes based on the needs of the animal that will be eating the food. These are not done with a pre-prepared recipe sent with auto-responder from an E-mail box. I do not send out a "one-diet-fits-all-dogs" or even a "one-recipe-for-all-Australian Cattle Dogs." I do these recipes one at a time, based on the information you provide about the animal that will be eating the food.

2007-01-18T20:04:00.000+05:30

Travel With Dogs

Airline Travel

An increasing number of dogs travel on internal and international flights today. Dogs, cats, and most other warm-blooded animals transported in commerce are protected by the Animal Welfare Act (AWA). The U.S. Department of Agriculture's (USDA) Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) enforces this law. APHIS' shipping regulations help ensure that people who transport and handle animals covered under the AWA treat them humanely. Airlines and other shippers are affected by regulations established to protect the wellbeing of animals in transit. Remember with air travel the container will be your pet's home for the length of the flight and also for an appreciable time prior to and after the flight after you have checked in and until he is collected after the flight.

Carrier or Kennel

1. The carrier or kennel should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around freely. Most airline recommendations are that the height should be the height of the dog to the top of the head in a normal standing position. The length should be the length of the dog from the nose to the root of the tail plus half the length measured from the floor to the elbow. This is in order to ensure that he can lie down with his nose resting on his forelegs and his front feet protruding beyond the tip of his nose. The width of the container should be twice the width of the dog measured at the shoulders.

2. The carrier can be constructed of fiberglass, rigid plastic, or heavy wickerwork.

3. Ventilation must be adequate and usually involves a wire mesh front on one side or end of the container with ventilation holes over the whole of the opposite side and the upper third of the other two sides. Projecting handles which also act as spacers must be provided. These are essential for transportation of the crate and also ensure that air flow is maintained when the container is loaded into the aircraft which may have a fairly full hold.

4. Containers must be nose and paw proof, i.e. the ventilation apertures must be of such a size that it is impossible for the animal to protrude nose or paws outside the container. Fixed food and water containers must be provided and these must be accessible from the outside.
On many internal flights (and some international ones) small dogs may be carried in the passenger cabin in underseat containers. If allowed, the total weight of the dog plus the container must not exceed 9 pounds (4 k).

Bedding

It is useful to use several thicknesses of newspaper plus an acrylic dog bed. A familiar article in the container helps to calm the animal.

Suitable carriers can be obtained from pet stores, breeders, kennels and often the airlines themselves. It is always worthwhile checking with the airline regarding their particular requirements.

Other Useful Tips

Tranquilization of the dog before loading in the carrier is not recommended. Tranquilizers sometimes wear off in flight when it is impossible to either comfort the dog or to give any further medication. It is a good idea to try to familiarize your dog with the travel container before the trip is undertaken. Feeding him in the container, first with the door closed and then open helps to eliminate some of the apprehension that may be felt during the actual trip.

Car Travel

Animals should be under control in vehicles and unable to distract you while you are driving. If you want your dog to be loose in the car he should be separated from you, and thus a sports vehicle or hatchback with a strong dog guard is ideal. Alternatively, a crate or cage can be used, the dimensions of which should be comfortable for the animal. If the dog is not so separated from you he should be tethered so that he cannot act as a distraction. The easiest way of doing this is place him in the back of the car, shutting the lead, attached to a properly adjusted collar, in the car door.

Travel, or more correctly motion sickness, is a condition which affects many dogs. It is due to the effect of the motion on the organs of balance located in the inner ear. Signs are usually excessive salivation, restlessness or excitement. Many of the human travel sickness remedies available from convenience stores, pharmacists and supermarkets are effective. Check with your vet to make sure that an adult rather than a children's dose will be necessary for the dog. If one particular brand does not work, try another since they all contain different combinations of drugs. Give the tablets at least half an hour before traveling is due. If the over-the-counter remedies are ineffective, consult your vet since there are several prescription only medicines that are extremely effective for this condition. Excitable dogs can be tranquilized but make sure you experiment beforehand so you do not give too much and have the animal off his legs for a while since the dose depends largely on the temperament and amount of excitement.

Sea Travel

Many ships and ferries today have permanent kennels into which your dog must be placed for the duration of the trip. The provision of a familiar blanket or toy helps to ease the tension. Mild tranquilization is possible since you can visit the dog during the trip and ascertain its effect.

Travel Hints

1. If you are going to stay in an hotel, ascertain beforehand that the hotel allows pets. There are web sites available that list such hotels and boarding houses, e.g. Pets Welcome.

2. Make sure the dog wears a correctly adjusted collar and not a check chain. The collar should bear an identification tag with your name, address and telephone number. If the dog has been microchipped, detail this with the accompanying information.

3. If he is traveling unaccompanied, check that his name appears on the container together with your name, address, telephone number and any other relevant details, e.g. where you are collecting him from and whether you wish to be telephoned first, etc.

4. Remember that most hotels and boarding houses will not allow dogs in the public rooms. If you leave him unattended in your room make sure there is no opportunity for escape and realize that you will be responsible for any damage caused. Again if practicable, i.e. size, a traveling cage or container is ideal. Even if the dog is extremely well behaved make sure that you place Do Not Disturb notices on the door if the dog is left unattended. In this way the possibility of confrontation with staff and escape is minimized.

5. Should your pet get lost, contact the local police, SPCA, animal control, humane societies and veterinarians.
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6. Remember that advance planning is vital to make the trip an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.
Additional Pet Travel Links:

Airline Travel with Your Dog
Have Pet, Will Travel

Page URL:
http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/travel2.html

House Soiling: Elimination Problems in Dogs

2007-01-18T20:02:00.000+05:30

Why is my dog soiling the house?

There are numerous reasons that a dog might soil the house with urine and/or stools. Determining the specific reason is essential for developing a treatment program. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house-trained.

Dogs that have been previously house-trained, may begin to soil the home for medical reasons or behavioral reasons. Assuming medical causes can be ruled out, some of the behavioral causes can be a change in guardian schedule, a change in housing or any change in the pet’s home that might lead to anxiety. For example, if you leave the dog alone for longer than the dog is accustomed, or significantly change the daily schedule or routine, your dog may begin to house-soil. Dogs that are exhibiting an increase in anxiety may begin to eliminate in the home, due primarily to a loss of control when anxious and not due to spite. Dogs that exhibit separation anxiety may soil the home, and require an intensive retraining program.

Why am I finding urination on upright objects?

Marking is urination on upright objects. It is most likely to occur on or near the odors, especially the urine, left by other dogs. The volume of urine is usually small. The problem is much more common in intact males, but some neutered males and spayed females will mark. Dogs may mark territory for a number of reasons including male hormonal influences, other dogs entering the property, moving to a new household or getting new furniture, or as a response to increased stress or anxiety.

Why does my dog urinate when he meets new people or I come home?

Two specific types of house-soiling, submissive and excitement urination, differ from most other forms of house-soiling in that the dog has little control over him elimination. Submissive urination occurs when a person approaches, reaches out, stands over or attempts to physically punish him. The dog not only urinates but may show other signs of submission such as ears back, retraction of lips, avoidance of eye contact, and cowering. Although this problem can be seen in dogs of any age, submissive urination is most commonly seen in puppies and young female dogs. Guardian intervention in the form of verbal reprimands or punishment, only serve to aggravate the problem by making the dog act more submissive which leads to further urination. Excitement urination is similar to submissive urination except the stimuli that lead to elimination are those that lead to excitement, particularly greeting and giving affection to the dog. These dogs may also be overly submissive, but not necessarily.

What medical problems could cause my dog to house-soil?

There are numerous medical problems that could cause or contribute to house-soiling, and these become increasingly more common as the dog ages. Medical problems that cause an increased frequency of urination such as bladder infections, bladder stones or crystals, or bladder tumors, those that cause a decrease in control or mobility such as neurological deterioration or arthritis, and those that cause an increase in urine volume (amount) such as kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, or Cushing’s disease could all contribute to indoor elimination. Certain drugs such as steroids may also cause a dog to drink more and urinate more. For dogs that defecate in the house, any condition that leads to more frequent defecation such as colitis, those that cause an increased volume of stool such as problems with absorption or lack of digestive enzymes, and those that affect the dog’s mobility or control such as arthritis or neurological deterioration must be ruled out. As dogs age, cognitive brain function decline, could also contribute to indoor elimination.

How can the cause of house-soiling be determined?

For dogs that are house-soiling a physical examination and medical history are first required. For most cases a urinalysis and general blood profile will also be needed, and additional tests such as radiographs and contrast studies, may be indicated based on the results. If there is any abnormality in elimination frequency or amount, stool color or consistency or urine odor, more comprehensive laboratory tests may be necessary. Once medical problems have been ruled out, it will then be necessary to determine if your dog was ever completely house-trained, whether there were changes in the pet’s household or schedule at the time the problem started, whether the dog is marking or eliminating on horizontal surfaces, whether or not the pet is exhibiting anxiety when the guardians leave or when he is locked in his confinement area, and whether there is any evidence of submissive or excitement urination.

How can house-soiling be treated?

Training techniques for house-soiling dogs are virtually identical to those needed to housetrain a new puppy. Even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odor, substrate, and learned habit may continue to attract the dog back to the location. In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self rewarding behavior since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate.

The key to effective housetraining is constant supervision. Prevent access to indoor elimination sites. Mildly correct the pet if he is eliminating in an inappropriate location. Redirect the dog to appropriate areas at times when elimination is necessary. Reinforce the acceptable behavior with lavish praise or food rewards when the dog eliminates in the designated area. If a word cue is used prior to each elimination-reward sequence, the dog may soon learn to eliminate on command. If you have trouble keeping the dog in sight leave a remote indoor leash attached to the dog. This leash can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviors (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct the dog to the appropriate area without delay. Whenever you are not available to supervise, the dog should be housed in either a confinement area where he does not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors).

Your dog must never be allowed access to indoor sites where he has previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. Access to these areas can be denied by closing doors, putting up barricades or booby trapping the areas. Odors that might attract the pet back to the area can be reduced or removed with commercial odor counteractants. Be certain to use a sufficient amount of the odor eliminator to reach everywhere that the urine has soaked into. The appeal of the substrate can be reduced by changing the surface covering (a plastic runner with nubs up, taking up the carpet, or electronic mats).

Feeding schedules can be regulated to improve guardian control over the situation. After a dog eats, he will usually need to eliminate in 15-30 minutes. Dogs that eat free-choice often need to relieve themselves at a variety of times throughout the day. Dogs that eat one or two scheduled meals each day often void in a more predictable manner. Feeding a low-residue diet may also be of benefit because the dog often has less urgency to defecate and produces less stool.

The dog that eliminates in his crate poses special problems. In these cases, crates and cages may not be the ideal training aid. Since the purpose of the crate is to provide a safe, comfortable area for the dog to curl up and relax, it is not appropriate for dogs that are anxious about entering or staying in their cage. While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a small room such as a laundry room or kitchen where the dog is fed, or a bedroom where the dog sleeps.

If the dog has reduced control due to his physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made. Some guardians may be able to arrange their schedules so that more frequent trips to the elimination area can be provided. Alternatively a dog walker or doggy day care may need to be considered. If the guardian cannot accommodate the dog’s decreased control, installing a doggy door, or providing a papered area may be necessary.

When age related cognitive decline is suspected, a drug trial with l-deprenyl may be useful in conjunction with retraining techniques.

How can separation anxiety be treated?

To try and differentiate house-soiling from separation anxiety, it may be necessary for the guardian to keep records of when the elimination occurs. If the elimination takes place when the guardian is gone, or the dog is prevented from being near the guardian, separation anxiety should be considered. If the house-soiling dog exhibits separation anxiety, treatment should be directed not only at re-establishing proper elimination habits, but also at the underlying separation anxiety. Drug therapy may be useful in those cases where anxiety is a contributing factor. It should be noted that punishment at homecoming is not only useless for correcting a problem that has occurred during the guardian’s absence, but also serves to add to the pet’s anxiety during future departures and homecomings.

How can submissive and excitement urination be treated?

For submissive urination, it is important that the guardians and all visitors interact with the pet in a less dominant or threatening manner. The pet should be allowed to approach the guardian. Kneeling down and speaking softly, rather than standing over the dog and petting the chest instead of the head, may help reduce submissive responses. Physical punishment and even the mildest verbal reprimands must be avoided. In fact, guardians who attempt to punish the pet for urinating submissively will make things worse, since this intensifies fearful and submissive behavior. When greeting a very submissive dog, the guardian may initially need to completely ignore him at greeting, even to the extent of avoiding eye contact. Counter-conditioning can be very helpful in controlling submissive urination. The dog is taught to perform a behavior that is not compatible with urinating, such as sitting for food or retrieving a toy when he greets someone. If the dog anticipates food or ball playing at each greeting, he is less likely to eliminate.

For excitement urination, those stimuli that initiate the behavior should be avoided. During greetings, guardians and guests should refrain from eye contact, and verbal or physical contact until the pet calms down. Greetings should be very low key and words spoken in a low, calm tone. Counter-conditioning, distraction techniques and drug therapy might be useful. Caution must be taken to only reward appropriate competing behaviors (e.g. sit up and beg, go lie on your mat, retrieving a ball). Inappropriate use or timing of rewards might further excite the dog and serve as a reward for the excitement urination.

The use of drugs to increase bladder sphincter tone might also be considered as an adjunct to behavior therapy, for refractory cases.

Another important aspect of treating over-excitement to visitors, is repeated presentations of the stimulus so that the dog learns the correct response. If visitors come only infrequently, the dog does not have the opportunity to learn a new behavior. By scheduling visitors to come, visit briefly, then leave by another door and re-enter, the dog may learn to be less excited and/or submissive with each entrance. Each time the person returns they are more familiar and less likely to stimulate the urination behavior. This allows the dog to practice the good behavior and reinforce the appropriate response.

How can marking be treated?

Neutering will eliminate male marking behavior in over 50% of dogs and is also recommended for female dogs that mark during estrus. Confining the pet so that he is unable to watch other dogs through windows in the home may be helpful. Urine residue must be removed from around doors, windows or other areas where stray dogs have been marking. The guardian should give rewards to reinforce marking at outdoor sites where marking is permitted and marking should not be permitted anywhere else. New upright objects that are brought into the home should not be placed on the floor until the pet is familiar with them. During retraining, the guardian must closely supervise the pet and when he cannot be supervised, he should be confined to his crate or bedroom area, away from areas that have been previously marked. It might also be possible to booby trap those areas that the pet might mark. If anxiety is an underlying factor in the marking behavior, then treatment of the anxiety with desensitization and counter-conditioning may also be helpful.

Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/elimination.html

$$BABY AND DOG$$

2007-01-18T19:58:00.000+05:30

Introducing an Infant to a Resident Dog
One of the most common questions asked of a veterinarian by an expectant parent (or grandparent) is how to introduce a new infant to the resident dog, particularly if the dog has not been exposed to infants before. Most dogs readily accept infants after a period of curiosity. There have been unfortunate incidents where infants have been injured by family dogs. It is because of these incidents that the following information is written.There are three types of dogs about which parents should be particularly concerned: those that have already manifested aggressive tendencies to babies, those that are, in general, also aggressive to adults, and those that have a history of predatory behavior, i.e., they chase and kill squirrels, birds, cats, goats, sheep or other mammals. If dogs with such histories are identified, it would be wise to consult an animal behavior therapist for advice on if and how they should manage future dog-child interactions.Fortunately, most dogs look upon a baby with curiosity and show no signs of aggression. However, some dogs perceive an infant as a strange mammal and a potential item of prey. Dogs that have never seen a baby probably do not view them as young human beings or even as small people. To help prevent accidents (sometimes fatal), some precautions should be taken.The following protocol is designed for people to follow when they wish to be especially careful in introducing a baby to an non-aggressive family dog. The procedures begin before the baby is born.Because the guardian will want to keep the dog quiet and under control when the baby is in his vicinity, the dog should reliably sit or lie down on command, and remain that way unless permitted to get up, regardless of other activities. He should be taught to remain calm and in a sitting position, for pleasant rewards rather than to avoid punishment. Because the commands SIT and STAY will eventually be used in conjunction with the baby, they should not be associated with punishment.Guardians should begin by teaching their dog to sit and stay for delicious tidbits. The dog is initially required to remain only for a few seconds, and this time is very gradually increased. Simultaneously, the activity level around the dog is made progressively arousing. For example, while the dog is sitting, the person takes a step backward and then forward and then rewards the dog, if he is still sitting. Next, the guardian takes two steps backward, returns to the dog, takes a step to the side, then two steps to the side, etc. Gradually the guardian extends the range and speed of activities, moving across the room, sitting down, standing up, rattling door knobs, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and not accompanying the guardian on these sojourns.After the dog has demonstrated he can remain seated while the guardian performs numerous, rapid activities, the guardian may then begin simulating activities that will occur with the baby. While the dog is in a sit/stay position, the guardians can carry a dog wrapped in blankets, rock the doll in their arms, let the dog look at the doll while keeping the dog in a sit/stay position, pretend to diaper the doll, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and remaining calm as people engage in these activities. A firm NO is appropriate if the dog begins to get up when he should not. If the guardian must repeatedly say NO, something is wrong with the training procedures. At no time should the guardian berate the dog with threats or hit him for getting up. The idea is to avoid associating unpleasant events (punishment) with such words as NO or STAY because the parent will later use those words to restrain the dog in the presence of the baby. The guardians should look at these practice sessions as games and not as discipline exercises.Before the baby is brought into the house, items that have been associated with the infant, such as clothing, can be brought home and the dog allowed to become familiar with the baby's odor. Initially, the dog should be permitted to sniff and smell the items as much as he wishes. Later, the guardians might have the dog sit and stay as they pick up and put down these items, carry them, etc.When the mother returns from the hospital, the dog should be allowed to greet her without the baby present. Only after the dog has calmed down should the baby be presented to the dog. Sometimes it is a good idea to keep the dog and baby separate for several hours, while allowing the dog to sniff more items of clothing and become aware of the general presence of the baby. In this manner, the dog can begin to get used to the presence of the baby in the house without actually being close enough to investigate the child. The dog can adjust to the sounds and odors of the baby.The appropriate time to introduce a baby to a dog is after the dog's excitement level has dissipated and the baby is in a quiet mood. Optimally, two people should help with the introduction, one to control and reward the dog and the other to hold the baby. The rapidity with which the procedures are carried out and the number of steps involved vary.Depending upon the exuberance of the dog, the person holding the baby may be sitting or standing. The dog should be on a leash in a sit/stay position and is rewarded with petting or praise. By this time, food rewards should no longer be necessary. Gradually, dog and baby are brought closer together. The dog should be allowed to see the baby but remain in a sitting position. As long as the dog is quiet, he should be allowed to remain nearby until it is necessary to move the baby or the baby becomes restless. Such introductions should be repeated several times during the first day. The dog may eventually be brought close enough so he can smell the baby, but not close as to be able to bite. The guardian must use his or her own discretion as to when it is appropriate to let the dog sniff the baby closely. If after several introductions the dog is not unduly excited and can be verbally controlled, the procedures can be repeated without a leash.The next step is to allow the dog to wander loose while the guardian is with the baby. The dog should not have access to the baby in unsupervised situations. A screen door can be put on the baby's room or the dog confined to areas of the house where he does not have access to the baby in the absence of the guardina. The dog should be allowed as much freedom in the house and interaction with the adults as possible. Initially, when the parents prepare to interact with the baby in the dog's presence, they should also interact with the dog in some manner. They might say "Let's go see the baby," or ask the dog to sit and pet him or give him a tidbit. Again, food rewards are not necessary every time the guardian asks the dog to sit or stay, but intermittent food rewards keep his performance level high.There are no definite guidelines as to when a dog actually accommodates to an infant and perhaps begins recognizing the child as a person. Most dogs probably adjust to the presence of the infant within a few days, while others may take several weeks. After the dog has been with the child for many hours and has become used to the child's sounds and movements (i.e., pays little attention to these activities and is not aroused by them), the parents can probably relax supervision of the dog in the presence of the child. This depends on the dog's history of aggression, particularly predatory behavior. While one cannot tell parents to relax and be totally unconcerned after the dog has had several weeks of supervised interaction with the baby, it is unlikely that an unfortunate incident would occur after that time if the dog is non-aggressive, relaxed and relatively uninterested in the baby in supervised circumstances. If the guardians are concerned, they may put a latched screen door on their baby's bedroom door or put up gates to prevent access to the child when the guardian is not there.Most incidents of dogs killing babies a few days to a few months old occur within the first few hours of the infant's presence in the home, when the dog unexpectedly comes upon the new baby in an unsupervised situation. It is believed that predatory behavior is the motivation for attacks on infants.To adjust to the presence of the infant, the dog must be gradually exposed to the infant. Initial exposures must be supervised and pleasant for the dog so he does not associate adverse events with the baby. To prevent an uncontrollable response during these exposures, the dog should have been previously trained to control himself in exciting situations.Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/babyintro.html

Allergies in the Dog

2007-01-18T19:54:00.000+05:30

What are allergies, and how do they affect dogs?

One of the most common conditions affecting dogs is allergy. In the allergic state, the dog's immune system overreacts to foreign substances (allergens or antigens) to which he is exposed. These overreactions are manifested in three ways. The most common is itching of the skin, either localized (one area) or generalized (all over the dog). Another manifestation involves the respiratory system and may result in coughing, sneezing, and/or wheezing. Sometimes, there may be an associated nasal or ocular (eye) discharge. The third manifestation involves the digestive system, resulting in vomiting or diarrhea.

Are there several types of allergies?

There are five known types of allergies in the dog: contact, flea, food, bacterial, and inhalant. Each of these has some common expressions in dogs, and each has some unique features.

Contact Allergy

Contact allergy is the least common of the five types of allergy. They result in a local reaction of the skin. Examples of contact allergy include reactions to flea collars or to types of bedding, such as wool. If the dog is allergic to such substances, there will be skin irritation and itching at the points of contact. Removal of the contact irritant solves the problem. However, identifying the allergen can require some detective work.

Flea Allergy

Flea allergy is common in dogs. A normal dog experiences only minor irritation in response to flea bites, often without any itching. On the other hand, the flea allergic dog has a severe, itch-producing reaction when the flea's saliva is deposited in the skin. Just one bite causes such intense itching that the dog may severely scratch or chew himself, leading to the removal of large amounts of hair. There will often be open sores or scabs on the skin, allowing a secondary bacterial infection to begin. The area most commonly involved is over the rump (just in front of the tail).

The most important treatment for flea allergy is to get the dog away from all fleas. Strict flea control is the backbone of successful treatment. Unfortunately, this is not always possible in warm and humid climates, where a new population of fleas can hatch out every 14-21 days. When strict flea control is not possible, corticosteroids (or cortisone or steroids) can be used to block the allergic reaction and give relief. This is often a necessary part of dealing with flea allergies. Fortunately, dogs are more resistant to the side-effects of steroids than humans; so much of what you know about the side-effects in people do not apply to dogs. If a secondary bacterial infection occurs, appropriate antibiotics must be used.

Bacterial Allergy

There are many types of Staphylococcus (Staph) bacteria. Some cause severe disease and some do not. There are several species of Staphylococcus bacteria that live on normal dog skin. If the skin is normal and the dog's immune system is normal, Staph causes no problems to its host. However, some dogs develop an allergy to this bacterium. When this happens, the dog develops areas of hair loss that look much like ringworm. They are often round and 1/2 to 2 inches (1-5 cm) in diameter. These same lesions develop in true Staph infection; they are easily treated with certain antibiotics, but the Staph-allergic dog has recurrent "Staph infections." The lesions will usually clear with appropriate antibiotics but return as soon as antibiotics are discontinued. After a while, some dogs become resistant to antibiotic treatment.

Treatment of Staph allergy involves antibiotics to control the immediate problem and desensitization with Staph antigen for long-term relief.

Inhalant Allergy

The most common type of allergy is the inhalant type, or atopy. Dogs may be allergic to all of the same inhaled allergens that affect humans. These include tree pollens (cedar, ash, oak, etc.), grass pollens (especially Bermuda), weed pollens (ragweed, etc.), molds, mildew, and the house dust mite. Many of these allergies occur seasonally, such as ragweed, cedar, and grass pollens. Others are around all the time, such as molds, mildew, and house dust mites. When humans inhale these allergens, we express the allergy as a respiratory problem; it is sometimes called "hay fever." The dog's reaction, however, usually produces severe, generalized itching. In fact, the most common cause of itching in the dog is inhalant allergy.

Most dogs that have inhalant allergy react to several allergens. If the number is small and they are the seasonal type, itching may last for just a few weeks at a time during one or two periods of the year. If the number of allergens is large or they are present year-round, the dog may itch constantly.

Treatment depends largely on the length of the dog's allergy season. It involves three approaches:

1. Anti-inflammatory. Anti-inflammatory therapy will dramatically block the allergic reaction in most cases. Steroids (cortisone) may be given orally or by injection, depending on the circumstances. If steroids are appropriate for your dog, you will be instructed in their proper use. Antihistamines can be of value in treating some allergic dogs when they are combined with steroids. In some dogs, antihistamines can significantly decrease the amount of steroid needed to provide relief. Fatty acid supplementation can also be implemented with steroids and antihistamines. When the three of them are combined, some allergic dogs are significantly improved. This is a non-specific approach, which does not treat the allergy, only the complications of the allergic state (itching).

2. Shampoo therapy. Many dogs are helped considerably by frequent bathing with a hypoallergenic shampoo. It has been demonstrated that some allergens may be absorbed through the skin. Frequent bathing is thought to reduce the amount of antigen exposure through this route. In addition to removing surface antigen, bathing alone will provide some temporary relief from itching and may allow the use of a lower dose of steroids.

3. Hyposensitization. The third major form of allergy treatment is hyposensitization with specific antigen injections (or allergy shots). Once the specific sources of allergy are identified, very small amounts of the antigen are injected weekly. The purpose of this therapy is to reprogram the body's immune system. It is hoped that as time passes, the immune system will become less reactive to the problem-causing allergens. If hyposensitization appears to help the dog, injections will continue for several years. For most dogs, a realistic goal is for the itching to be significantly reduced in severity; in some dogs, itching may completely resolve. Generally, steroids are only used on a brief and intermittent basis. This therapeutic approach is recommended for the middle-aged or older dog that has year round itching caused by inhalant allergy. This approach is not successful with food allergy.

Although hyposensitization is the ideal way to treat inhalant allergy, it does have some drawbacks and may not be the best choice in certain circumstances and for these reasons:

1. Cost: This is the most expensive form of treatment.

2. Age of the Patient: Because many dogs develop additional allergies as they get older, young dogs may need to be retested 1-3 years later.

3. Success Rate: About 50% of dogs will have an excellent response. About 25% get partial to goodresponse. About 25% get little or no response. The same statistics are true for people undergoing desensitization.

4. Food Allergies: Although tests for food allergy are available, the reliability of the test is so low that it is not recommended at this time. A food trial remains the best diagnostic test for food allergy.

5. Time of Response: The time until apparent response may be 2-5 months, or longer - a year or more. 6. Interference of steroids: Dogs must not receive oral steroids for two weeks or injectable steroids for six weeks prior to testing; these drugs will interfere with the test results.

Food Allergy

Dogs are not likely to be born with food allergies. More commonly, they develop allergies to food products they have eaten for a long time. The allergy most frequently develops in response to the protein component of the food; for example, beef, pork, chicken, or turkey. Food allergy may produce any of the clinical signs previously discussed, including itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress. Veterinarians recommend testing for food allergy when the clinical signs have been present for several months, when the dog has a poor response to steroids, or when a very young dog itches without other apparent causes of allergy. Testing is done with a special hypoallergenic diet. Because it takes at least eight weeks for all other food products to get out of the system, the dog must eat the special diet exclusively for 8-12 weeks (or more). If positive response occurs, your vet will instruct you how to proceed. If the diet is not fed exclusively, it will not be a meaningful test. This cannot be overemphasized. If any type of table food, treats or vitamins are given, these must be discontinued during the testing period. There may be problems with certain types of chewable heartworm preventative, as well. Your veterinarian will discuss this with you.

Because dogs that are being tested for inhalant allergy generally itch year round, a food allergy dietary test can be performed while the inhalant test and antigen preparation are occurring.

SPECIFIC VETERINARY INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY RECEIVE:
Instructions which may be specific for your dog

___ 1) An injection of steroids was given. Relief should be apparent within 12-24 hours. If not, please call your veterinarian. The dog should feel better and itch less for about one month. If an increase in water consumption or urination occurs, please report this to your vet for future reference. (These side-effects are common with steroid administration and will go away in a few days without treatment.) Return for further evaluation when the first signs of itching recur.

___ 2) Begin oral steroids when the first signs of itching return. Give ____ tablets every other morning. Adjust the dosage upward or downward to the lowest effective dose, with a maximum dose of __________ permitted. Stop giving the medication every 4-6 months to see if there are times of the year when therapy is not needed. Report any increase in water consumption to your vet at once.

___ 3) Your vet may have dispensed oral steroid tablets. Give ____ of the ____ mg tablets every other day for 3 doses (6 days), then ____ tablets every other day for 3 more doses (6 more days). Continue this downward progression (________________________) until the first signs of itching recur. At that time, go back to the next higher level and report that level to your vet (so that he can be sure it is a safe level).

Stop giving the tablets every 4-6 months to see if there are periods of the year when they are not necessary. When itching returns, begin immediately at the maintenance dose. If that does not stop the itching, increase the dosage slightly (to a maximum of ___ tablets) for a few doses, then return to the lower dose.

Report any increase in water consumption to your vet at once. (This may occur at the initial dose but should stop on the maintenance dose.)

___ 4) Your dog is to exclusively eat a hypoallergenic diet. If he will not do so readily, mix it 25:75 with the current diet for several days, then gradually increase the special diet to 100%. If this does not work, contact your vet for an alternative plan. Discontinue any chewable treats or vitamins, including heartworm preventatives. (There is a heartworm prevention product available in a non-chewable tablet that should be substituted.) Table food is not allowed. Offer only distilled water to drink, if that is possible.

___ 5) Your dog has a flea allergy or has enough fleas to make the other allergy problem worse. Flea control is very important and should include treating the dog and his environment. Bear in mind that flea allergies often accompany other types of allergies, especially inhalant allergy.

___ 6) Your dog has a bacterial skin infection secondary to allergy. The following are recommended:

a) Antibiotics are to be used for the next _____ days. If the infection is not gone by the time the medication is completed, call for a refill or for a change in medication.

b) The medicated shampoo, _____________________, is to be used every _____ days. Allow the shampoo to stay in the haircoat for a few minutes before thoroughly rinsing the dog.

c) The topical medication, ___________________________________, is to be used ______ times daily for __________ days.

___ 7) Your dog has a Staph allergy. The following are recommended:

Antibiotics are to be used for the next _____ days.

The medicated shampoo, _________________________, is to be used every _____ days.

___ 8) Staph antigen injections will be given daily for 5 consecutive days beginning __________, then weekly for 3 weeks. Thereafter, weekly injections will be given by you, depending on need and response.

Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/allergies.html

Breeding Dogs and Raising Puppies

2007-01-18T19:52:00.000+05:30

Breeding Dogs and Raising Puppies

Raising puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.

How often does a female dog come into heat?

The female dog comes into heat (estrus) about every six months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle every 8-10 months. The heat period lasts about three weeks.

What are the signs of heat?

The most notable sign of heat is vaginal bleeding. This begins about the end of the first week of estrus and lasts for about 10-14 days. Another consistent sign is swelling of the vulva. During estrus male dogs will be attracted to her. The most fertile time is considered the 10th through the 14th days of estrus; however, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day.

What should I expect during my dog's pregnancy?

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, ranges from 60 to 67 days, averaging 63 days. Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65. The only way to accurately determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of breeding. If at all possible, the breeding date(s) should be recorded. The mother should be examined three weeks after breeding to confirm her pregnancy.

A pregnant dog should be fed a puppy formulation of a premium brand of dog food for the duration of the pregnancy and through the nursing period. These diets are generally available through veterinary hospitals or pet stores. Puppy diets provide all the extra nutrition needed for the mother and her litter. If the mother is eating one of these diets, no calcium, vitamin, or mineral supplements are needed. The puppy formulation is necessary to provide the extra nutrients for pregnancy and nursing.

During pregnancy, the mother's food consumption will often reach 1½ times her level before pregnancy. By the end of the nursing period, it may exceed two times the pre-pregnancy amount. Do not withhold food; increasing the number of feedings per day is helpful in allowing her to eat enough for her needs and those of the puppies.

What should I do to prepare for whelping?

From the time of breeding, many dogs show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention. Some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomition (morning sickness), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.

During the latter stages of pregnancy, the expectant mother begins to look for a secure place for delivery. Many become uncomfortable being alone and will cling closely to the guardian. At the onset of labor, many nervously seek a place to make the "nest" or birthing place. If the dog is attached to her guardian, she will not want to be left alone at the time of delivery. If left alone, she may delay delivery until the guardian returns.

Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a secluded corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and so you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide a private hiding place for the expectant and delivering mother and will absorb the birthing fluids. The upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

What happens during labor and delivery?

Most dogs experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers should be attended by their guardians until at least one or two puppies are born. If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary, although it is desirable. If the guardian elects to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box.

The signs of impending labor generally include nervousness and panting. The dog will often quit eating during the last 24 hours before labor. She will also usually have a drop in rectal temperature below 100ºF (37.8ºC). The temperature drop may occur intermittently for several days prior to delivery, but it will usually be constant for the last 24 hours.

Delivery times will vary. Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours. Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times. English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekinese puppies tend to have sizable heads that make delivery more difficult. It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy. Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labor stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born. If labor does not resume within a few hours after the delivery of the first puppies, examination by a veterinarian is advised. If labor is interrupted for twenty-four hours or more, veterinary assistance should definitely be obtained.

Puppies are usually born head first; however, breech presentations, in which the puppy is delivered tail-end first, occur about 40% of the time and are also considered normal. Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta (afterbirth). The placentas usually pass after the puppies are born. Any that do not pass will disintegrate and pass within 24-48 hours after delivery. It is normal for the mother to eat the placentas.

If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose. This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing; it also dries the newborn's haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about ¾ to 1 inch (1½ to 2 cm) from the body. Next, she will eat the placenta.

If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery. A dampened gauze or thin wash cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet. When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e., toward her rear feet) direction. If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is probably lodged. A veterinarian's assistance must be sought without delay.

It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies. First-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so. If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene. The puppy's face should be wiped with a damp wash cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with a soft, warm towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. The umbilical cord should be tied with cord (i.e., sewing thread, dental floss) and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about ½ inch (1 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box.

Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration. This fluid can be removed by the following procedure. First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy's face should be cradled between the first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red. A bluish colored tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signaling that the swinging procedure should be repeated.

It may be helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. (A towel can be warmed in a microwave oven.) After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, he should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery. Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle may be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source. Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.

Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box. The box should be lined with soft bedding prior to the puppies' return. The mother should accept the puppies readily and recline for nursing.

The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery and to check the newborn puppies. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production.

The mother will have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery. If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinarian for possible problems.

What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian. Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:

1) Twenty minutes of intense labor occurs without a puppy being delivered.

2) Ten minutes of intense labor occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal.

3) The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.

4) The mother's body temperature exceeds 103ºF (39.4ºC) (via a rectal thermometer).

5) Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.

Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision.

Is premature delivery a likely problem?

Occasionally, a mother will deliver a litter several days premature. The puppies may be small, thin, and have little or no hair. It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the mother. Puppies that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or stomach tube. The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from a veterinarian. Premature puppies must be kept warm. The mother can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them. If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating pad, or hot water bottle. Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be controlled. The temperature in the box should be maintained at 85º to 90º F (29.4º to 32.2º C), but the box should be large enough so the puppies can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable.

Is it likely that one or more puppies will be stillborn?

It is not uncommon for one or two puppies in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn puppy will disrupt labor, resulting in dystocia. At other times, the dead puppy will be born normally. Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not easily determined without an autopsy that includes cultures and the submission of tissues to a pathologist. This is only recommended in special circumstances.

Additional breeding and puppy links:
Orphaned Puppies

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.Dog Health Care

2007-01-18T19:37:00.000+05:30

Any health care links located here are NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your dog to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your dog's symptoms with any of your concerns about the dog's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your dog's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.DISCLAIMER: The information found on the Dog Health Care pages may not be applicable to your dog's health condition or disease. Veterinary treatment should be addressed by the veterinarian of your choice. P&PI shall not have any liability for the content or any errors or omissions in the information provided on this web site.

www.sniksnak.com

Veterinary Information for Dog Owners

2007-01-18T19:29:00.000+05:30

We
have compiled veterinary information pertaining to dogs at this site. We
hope it will be useful to you. We add to the information on a regular
basis. As time goes on, we hope to make it a more and more valuable
resource for dog owners seeking information on veterinary medicine. In
many cases we have left the original question and answer format -
feeling that the dialogue is helpful .

Please do not use our site to attempt
to diagnose or treat your pet. Your veterinarian is the best source of
health advice for an individual pet. Please do
use our site to become better informed about the medical problems
your pet may have. We will do our best to ensure that information
presented is accurate and up-to-date. The most current
information will be at the top of each page. Remember that veterinarians
often disagree about the best treatments for pets. There are often
several perfectly acceptable ways to treat the same condition. Just ask
a lot of questions!

For a complete listing of our sites medical and behavioral
problems in dogs - please see

The
Alphabetical Index of Dog Healthcare Information - This is
our main information site organized in many different topic pages.

West Nile Virus in Horses

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West Nile virus (WNV) has become endemic in the United States and is here to stay. Since its first occurrence in New York in 1999, migrating birds have spread the virus throughout the United States and Canada.
In the United States there were 15,257 equine cases and 4,156 human cases in 2002, 4,636 equine cases and 9,306 human cases in 2003, and 1,314 equine cases and 2,470 human cases in 2004.
In Michigan there were 341 equine cases and 644 human cases (51 deaths) in 2002, 9 equine cases and 19 human cases (2 deaths) in 2003, and 21 equine cases and 16 human cases in 2004.
The equine mortality rate continues to be about 30 percent. The fatality rate in people is reported to be around 10-15 percent. For all species, those at greatest risk are the young, the old, and those with compromised immune systems.
Typically, horses and people are considered ‘dead-end hosts,’ i.e., they do not act as a source of infection for others; however, transmission of the virus in humans through blood transfusions, organ transplants, and across the placenta has occurred. These routes, especially blood transfusions, should be considered with horses.
Most other species develop an immune response without becoming ill, except for rare cases where the animal’s immune system is compromised.
Although the disease has been reported in a variety of other species, such as dogs, wolves, llamas, and squirrels, it has been found that most of the animals that contracted WNV already had health issues.
However, WNV has been found to be a huge problem with otherwise healthy alligators in the southern United States.
It is important to remember that most horses (and people) bitten by WNV-infected mosquitoes don’t become ill.
Those horses that do are most likely to exhibit clinical signs that are neurological in nature. Muscle fasciculations (muscle twitching) seem to be one of the most common signs. Additional signs that may be seen are incoordination, muscle weakness, fever, somnolence (sleepiness), inability to eat and drink, recumbency, and seizures.
Unlike Eastern equine encephalitis and Western equine encephalitis which have a very low survival rate, horses clinically affected by WNV appear to have a 65 percent chance of recovery and return to normal function when treated.
However, a recent study in Minnesota has shown that it may take several months for some horses to recover and that some horses may have persistent neurological deficits.
Once a horse has been infected with the WNV and survived, it is protected from development of clinical disease for an extended period of time.
There is no specific treatment. Horses that are clinically infected are treated by supportive measures, such as IV fluids, control of fever, and safe, quiet housing. Prevention remains the best practice to follow.
The horses that remain able to stand or are able to stand with assistance usually make a complete recovery over several weeks to months. Those horses that become recumbent have a guarded prognosis for survival.
Management of recumbent horses is very difficult and costly. Often horses are required to be euthanized for humane reasons even with an owner committed to treatment.
Vaccination is recommended for all equids--horses, donkeys, and mules. There is no evidence that vaccination is related to pregnancy loss or birth defects.
Fort Dodge has two products available. The WNV vaccine and a combination vaccine where WNV is combined with EEE, WEE, and tetanus.
Vaccination recommendations for previously unvaccinated horses are to give two doses of vaccine three to six weeks apart. It takes about four weeks after the second dose (i.e. the booster vaccination) for maximum protection to occur.
A new DNA vaccine for WNV from Merial is also available.
If the vaccinations are started after an outbreak, it is advised to give the booster after only two weeks time. If horses are exposed to mosquitoes for more than six months per year, most veterinarians are recommending a booster every six months.
In addition, Fort Dodge has recommended that previously vaccinated horses that receive a booster in early spring get another booster in July. The vast majority of cases across the country occur in August and September.
Research shows the efficacy of both vaccines to be about 95 percent; a few horses that were vaccinated according to manufacturer recommendations prior to WNV exposure have developed WNV.
Also, research by the vaccine manufacturer has demonstrated that the majority of properly vaccinated horses do not appear to develop a viremia (the vaccine prevents the virus from replicating in the animal’s body).
At present, recommendations for reducing the risk of your horse developing WNV include proper vaccination, minimizing your horse’s exposure to mosquitoes and mosquito control.
To reduce mosquito exposure, stable horses at dusk and dawn; use fly blankets, masks, and leg wraps; turn barn lights off; use fans to move air; and use mosquito repellents. Mosquito control programs include reduction of standing water, encouraging natural predators (fish, birds, etc.), and use of chemicals for larval and adult mosquito control.