What to feed an Australian Cattle Dog

As you may know, each breed of dog has its own unique set of nutritional requirements.
Their unique set of nutritional requirements have been passed on from generation to generation just like the breed's unique coat, body size and temperament. We have found that we can not change the genetic makeup of the animals we are feeding just by exposing them to a different diet for a small amount of time. Therefore, I suggest that Australian Cattle Dog owners try to feed their present companion pets with foods that contain what this breed requires. The food should contain: (#1) nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's Australian Cattle Dog and which are easy for them to assimilate) and (#2) the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.
Pet owners who feed their companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year. That is why I recommend that pet owners learn about the nutritional needs of the animal they are feeding before deciding on one of the many foods which are now available. When we first learn what our companion pet needs and then choose a diet that is correct for the animal being fed, it is a win-win situation: the dogs are healthier and the owners save money.
I personally believe that the best diet for an Australian Cattle Dog is one that the owner makes fresh, using quality ingredients, without preservatives. It only takes about one to two hours a week to cook for an Australian Cattle Dog so that both #1 & #2 are met and preparing home cooked meals for a dog can be less expensive than buying the average all-breed, any-breed commercial pet food. I hope that you will consider using this option to feed your companion pets correctly.
In my books (published in 1990 and 1997) on breed specific canine nutrition, I listed food sources to use and food sources to avoid when feeding an Australian Cattle Dog. The idea was to provide pet owners (both those who wanted to cook for their companion pets or those who wanted to buy an all-breed/any-breed preservative filled food for their pets) information about food sources to use or avoid. So that you can have that same information, below is the text from the page "Australian Cattle Dog" that was in one of my books on canine nutrition.
________ text from the Australian Cattle Dog page out of my book on Canine Nutrition ________
AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOGWeight Standards: m/f - 40 to 45 lbs.Height Standards: m/f - 18 to 19 inches Coat: dense in texture, black with tan and white speckleCommon Ailments: dysplasia, hot spots and skin rashes
The Australian Cattle Dog developed in Australia in the early 1800's. This breed can trace its heritage back to being a direct descendant of four specific breeds: the Dingo, the Blue Merle Highland Collie, the Dalmatian and the Black and Tan Kelpie. It originally herded cattle in the rough outback of Australia. Here it developed not only its nutritional requirements but its legendary stamina and endurance.
Native food supplies for this breed would have been those found in the Australian outback (a high desert environment) and would have included ground vegetables, wheat, oats and meats from beef, rabbit, and kangaroo. A special note concerning the meats; all the meats from this area have a very low fat to muscle ratio. For the Australian Cattle dog I recommend low fat / high fiber commercial foods with a blend of beef, corn, and wheat. I also recommend that you avoid feeding an Australian Cattle dog any soy, white rice, beet pulp, poultry or fish.
__________________________end of page from book__________________________
At this web site I have already documented how it has been PROVEN that one breed can require ten times what a different breed requires - PER KILOGRAM OF BODY WEIGHT - of fat soluble vitamin "D" and thus a product formulated for the breed with the higher requirements would be toxic to the breed with lower requirements.
I am also providing you with information about which sources of vitamins and minerals are best for an Australian Cattle Dog because it has also been proven that different breeds will assimilate different sources of vitamins and minerals in different ways. i.e. There are over 170 different molecular forms of the mineral "calcium." The source of the mineral calcium that an Australian Cattle Dog can easily assimilate can be hard for a different breed to assimilate and thus that other breed can develop kidney stones on the best source of calcium for the Australian Cattle Dog. The reverse of this is also true. Below you will find a list of the best sources of vitamins and minerals for the dietary requirements of the Australian Cattle Dog. The balance or amounts are not listed because each individual animal can have different requirements depending on: the sex of the animal; the age (a puppy will have different needs than an adolescent, who even though it may be the same size as an adult will have different requirements than an adult); the activity level (if a dog is very active the dog will need more of the B complex than a couch potato of the same breed); stress levels; medical conditions; and other dietary factors (i.e. does the water supply contain high amounts of minerals). There are many factors come into play when considering the proper amount of each nutrient in an individual dogs diet.
PLEASE NOTE: Some breeds, because of their breed specific set of nutritional requirements, should have very low amounts of some vitamins or minerals in their diet. The amount that some breeds require may have already been exceeded by the amount that is in most all-breed/any-breed commercial foods (i.e. copper - Bedlington Terrier or zinc - Siberian Husky). This is another reason that I have not listed any amounts here - I do not want dog owners to supplement what may already be TOO MUCH in an all breed food with additional vitamins or minerals just because I listed an amount here. The list below is for SOURCE information only.
________ the best vitamin and mineral sources to feed an Australian Cattle Dog ________
Vitamin & Best SourceVitamin A Beta CaroteneVitamin B-1 Thiamine Mononitrate & YeastVitamin B-2 Riboflavin & YeastVitamin B-6 Pyridoxine Hcl & YeastVitamin B-12 Cyanocobalamin & YeastVitamin D D-activated SterolVitamin E dl-alpha tocopherol acetateNiacinamideBiotinFolic Acidd-Calcium PantothenatePara Amino Benzoic AcidMineral & Best Source Calcium Bone Meal & di-Cal PhosCopper GluconateIodine Sea KelpIron Ferrous FumerateMagnesium Magnesium-GluconateManganese Manganese-GluconatePhosphorus Bone Meal & di-Cal PhosPotassium Potassium-GluconateZinc Zinc-Gluconate
Please do not feed this breed of dog any supplemental vitamin C (ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate or ascorbal palmitate) because of the kidney and liver damage it can do (see article at this web site).
__________________________end of list of best vitamin/mineral sources __________________________
Please Note: I have received many E-mails from dog owners asking if the book that is now available in book stores contains recipes or supplement charts for the average puppy, adolescent, adult or geriatric Australian Cattle Dog. It does not. It only contains one recipe and that recipe is there to show how a pet owner can take the ingredients listed on a bag of grocery store dog food and make the food cheaper, from fresh whole sources and without any harmful preservatives. I do not recommend that recipe for any one specific breed of dog (especially an Australian Cattle Dog). I am planning to include recipes and supplement charts for Australian Cattle Dogs in my next book and hopefully that book will be ready to be published within the next year.
If you can not wait for my next book to be published and want to start cooking nutritious preservative free food for a special companion pet I would be happy to prepare a recipe for you to use (for a small fee). Over the last 30 years many dog lovers have asked me to develop a diet for a specific companion pet or their entire kennel of dogs. I have formulated thousands of dog specific (more than just breed specific)diets and I would be willing to do this for your companion pet.
To have me prepare a custom recipe and supplement chart for a dog I need the following information:
The breed of dog:
The sex:
The age:
The weight:
The activity level:
The source of water:
Information about the dog's living environment:
Information about the dog's medical history:
Please be specific since all these factor into the nutritional requirements of a dog. I ask that you send me as much information as possible to work with and please be patient, the average turn around time (from the time I receive what I need to formulate a custom recipe, to the time the packet is ready to be E-mailed to you) is 5 to 7 days. I formulate these recipes based on the needs of the animal that will be eating the food. These are not done with a pre-prepared recipe sent with auto-responder from an E-mail box. I do not send out a "one-diet-fits-all-dogs" or even a "one-recipe-for-all-Australian Cattle Dogs." I do these recipes one at a time, based on the information you provide about the animal that will be eating the food.

Travel With Dogs


Airline Travel

An increasing number of dogs travel on internal and international flights today. Dogs, cats, and most other warm-blooded animals transported in commerce are protected by the Animal Welfare Act (AWA). The U.S. Department of Agriculture's (USDA) Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) enforces this law. APHIS' shipping regulations help ensure that people who transport and handle animals covered under the AWA treat them humanely. Airlines and other shippers are affected by regulations established to protect the well­being of animals in transit. Remember with air travel the container will be your pet's home for the length of the flight and also for an appreciable time prior to and after the flight after you have checked in and until he is collected after the flight.

Carrier or Kennel


1. The carrier or kennel should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around freely. Most airline recommendations are that the height should be the height of the dog to the top of the head in a normal standing position. The length should be the length of the dog from the nose to the root of the tail plus half the length measured from the floor to the elbow. This is in order to ensure that he can lie down with his nose resting on his forelegs and his front feet protruding beyond the tip of his nose. The width of the container should be twice the width of the dog measured at the shoulders.

2. The carrier can be constructed of fiberglass, rigid plastic, or heavy wickerwork.

3. Ventilation must be adequate and usually involves a wire mesh front on one side or end of the container with ventilation holes over the whole of the opposite side and the upper third of the other two sides. Projecting handles which also act as spacers must be provided. These are essential for transportation of the crate and also ensure that air flow is maintained when the container is loaded into the aircraft which may have a fairly full hold.

4. Containers must be nose and paw proof, i.e. the ventilation apertures must be of such a size that it is impossible for the animal to protrude nose or paws outside the container. Fixed food and water containers must be provided and these must be accessible from the outside.
On many internal flights (and some international ones) small dogs may be carried in the passenger cabin in underseat containers. If allowed, the total weight of the dog plus the container must not exceed 9 pounds (4 k).

Bedding

It is useful to use several thicknesses of newspaper plus an acrylic dog bed. A familiar article in the container helps to calm the animal.

Suitable carriers can be obtained from pet stores, breeders, kennels and often the airlines themselves. It is always worthwhile checking with the airline regarding their particular requirements.

Other Useful Tips

Tranquilization of the dog before loading in the carrier is not recommended. Tranquilizers sometimes wear off in flight when it is impossible to either comfort the dog or to give any further medication. It is a good idea to try to familiarize your dog with the travel container before the trip is undertaken. Feeding him in the container, first with the door closed and then open helps to eliminate some of the apprehension that may be felt during the actual trip.

Car Travel

Animals should be under control in vehicles and unable to distract you while you are driving. If you want your dog to be loose in the car he should be separated from you, and thus a sports vehicle or hatchback with a strong dog guard is ideal. Alternatively, a crate or cage can be used, the dimensions of which should be comfortable for the animal. If the dog is not so separated from you he should be tethered so that he cannot act as a distraction. The easiest way of doing this is place him in the back of the car, shutting the lead, attached to a properly adjusted collar, in the car door.

Travel, or more correctly motion sickness, is a condition which affects many dogs. It is due to the effect of the motion on the organs of balance located in the inner ear. Signs are usually excessive salivation, restlessness or excitement. Many of the human travel sickness remedies available from convenience stores, pharmacists and supermarkets are effective. Check with your vet to make sure that an adult rather than a children's dose will be necessary for the dog. If one particular brand does not work, try another since they all contain different combinations of drugs. Give the tablets at least half an hour before traveling is due. If the over-the-counter remedies are ineffective, consult your vet since there are several prescription only medicines that are extremely effective for this condition. Excitable dogs can be tranquilized but make sure you experiment beforehand so you do not give too much and have the animal off his legs for a while since the dose depends largely on the temperament and amount of excitement.

Sea Travel

Many ships and ferries today have permanent kennels into which your dog must be placed for the duration of the trip. The provision of a familiar blanket or toy helps to ease the tension. Mild tranquilization is possible since you can visit the dog during the trip and ascertain its effect.

Travel Hints


1. If you are going to stay in an hotel, ascertain beforehand that the hotel allows pets. There are web sites available that list such hotels and boarding houses, e.g. Pets Welcome.

2. Make sure the dog wears a correctly adjusted collar and not a check chain. The collar should bear an identification tag with your name, address and telephone number. If the dog has been microchipped, detail this with the accompanying information.

3. If he is traveling unaccompanied, check that his name appears on the container together with your name, address, telephone number and any other relevant details, e.g. where you are collecting him from and whether you wish to be telephoned first, etc.

4. Remember that most hotels and boarding houses will not allow dogs in the public rooms. If you leave him unattended in your room make sure there is no opportunity for escape and realize that you will be responsible for any damage caused. Again if practicable, i.e. size, a traveling cage or container is ideal. Even if the dog is extremely well behaved make sure that you place Do Not Disturb notices on the door if the dog is left unattended. In this way the possibility of confrontation with staff and escape is minimized.

5. Should your pet get lost, contact the local police, SPCA, animal control, humane societies and veterinarians.
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6. Remember that advance planning is vital to make the trip an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.
Additional Pet Travel Links:

Airline Travel with Your Dog
Have Pet, Will Travel

Page URL:
http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/travel2.html

House Soiling: Elimination Problems in Dogs

Why is my dog soiling the house?

There are numerous reasons that a dog might soil the house with urine and/or stools. Determining the specific reason is essential for developing a treatment program. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house-trained.

Dogs that have been previously house-trained, may begin to soil the home for medical reasons or behavioral reasons. Assuming medical causes can be ruled out, some of the behavioral causes can be a change in guardian schedule, a change in housing or any change in the pet’s home that might lead to anxiety. For example, if you leave the dog alone for longer than the dog is accustomed, or significantly change the daily schedule or routine, your dog may begin to house-soil. Dogs that are exhibiting an increase in anxiety may begin to eliminate in the home, due primarily to a loss of control when anxious and not due to spite. Dogs that exhibit separation anxiety may soil the home, and require an intensive retraining program.

Why am I finding urination on upright objects?

Marking is urination on upright objects. It is most likely to occur on or near the odors, especially the urine, left by other dogs. The volume of urine is usually small. The problem is much more common in intact males, but some neutered males and spayed females will mark. Dogs may mark territory for a number of reasons including male hormonal influences, other dogs entering the property, moving to a new household or getting new furniture, or as a response to increased stress or anxiety.

Why does my dog urinate when he meets new people or I come home?

Two specific types of house-soiling, submissive and excitement urination, differ from most other forms of house-soiling in that the dog has little control over him elimination. Submissive urination occurs when a person approaches, reaches out, stands over or attempts to physically punish him. The dog not only urinates but may show other signs of submission such as ears back, retraction of lips, avoidance of eye contact, and cowering. Although this problem can be seen in dogs of any age, submissive urination is most commonly seen in puppies and young female dogs. Guardian intervention in the form of verbal reprimands or punishment, only serve to aggravate the problem by making the dog act more submissive which leads to further urination. Excitement urination is similar to submissive urination except the stimuli that lead to elimination are those that lead to excitement, particularly greeting and giving affection to the dog. These dogs may also be overly submissive, but not necessarily.

What medical problems could cause my dog to house-soil?

There are numerous medical problems that could cause or contribute to house-soiling, and these become increasingly more common as the dog ages. Medical problems that cause an increased frequency of urination such as bladder infections, bladder stones or crystals, or bladder tumors, those that cause a decrease in control or mobility such as neurological deterioration or arthritis, and those that cause an increase in urine volume (amount) such as kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, or Cushing’s disease could all contribute to indoor elimination. Certain drugs such as steroids may also cause a dog to drink more and urinate more. For dogs that defecate in the house, any condition that leads to more frequent defecation such as colitis, those that cause an increased volume of stool such as problems with absorption or lack of digestive enzymes, and those that affect the dog’s mobility or control such as arthritis or neurological deterioration must be ruled out. As dogs age, cognitive brain function decline, could also contribute to indoor elimination.

How can the cause of house-soiling be determined?

For dogs that are house-soiling a physical examination and medical history are first required. For most cases a urinalysis and general blood profile will also be needed, and additional tests such as radiographs and contrast studies, may be indicated based on the results. If there is any abnormality in elimination frequency or amount, stool color or consistency or urine odor, more comprehensive laboratory tests may be necessary. Once medical problems have been ruled out, it will then be necessary to determine if your dog was ever completely house-trained, whether there were changes in the pet’s household or schedule at the time the problem started, whether the dog is marking or eliminating on horizontal surfaces, whether or not the pet is exhibiting anxiety when the guardians leave or when he is locked in his confinement area, and whether there is any evidence of submissive or excitement urination.

How can house-soiling be treated?

Training techniques for house-soiling dogs are virtually identical to those needed to housetrain a new puppy. Even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odor, substrate, and learned habit may continue to attract the dog back to the location. In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self rewarding behavior since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate.

The key to effective housetraining is constant supervision. Prevent access to indoor elimination sites. Mildly correct the pet if he is eliminating in an inappropriate location. Redirect the dog to appropriate areas at times when elimination is necessary. Reinforce the acceptable behavior with lavish praise or food rewards when the dog eliminates in the designated area. If a word cue is used prior to each elimination-reward sequence, the dog may soon learn to eliminate on command. If you have trouble keeping the dog in sight leave a remote indoor leash attached to the dog. This leash can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviors (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct the dog to the appropriate area without delay. Whenever you are not available to supervise, the dog should be housed in either a confinement area where he does not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors).

Your dog must never be allowed access to indoor sites where he has previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. Access to these areas can be denied by closing doors, putting up barricades or booby trapping the areas. Odors that might attract the pet back to the area can be reduced or removed with commercial odor counteractants. Be certain to use a sufficient amount of the odor eliminator to reach everywhere that the urine has soaked into. The appeal of the substrate can be reduced by changing the surface covering (a plastic runner with nubs up, taking up the carpet, or electronic mats).

Feeding schedules can be regulated to improve guardian control over the situation. After a dog eats, he will usually need to eliminate in 15-30 minutes. Dogs that eat free-choice often need to relieve themselves at a variety of times throughout the day. Dogs that eat one or two scheduled meals each day often void in a more predictable manner. Feeding a low-residue diet may also be of benefit because the dog often has less urgency to defecate and produces less stool.

The dog that eliminates in his crate poses special problems. In these cases, crates and cages may not be the ideal training aid. Since the purpose of the crate is to provide a safe, comfortable area for the dog to curl up and relax, it is not appropriate for dogs that are anxious about entering or staying in their cage. While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a small room such as a laundry room or kitchen where the dog is fed, or a bedroom where the dog sleeps.

If the dog has reduced control due to his physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made. Some guardians may be able to arrange their schedules so that more frequent trips to the elimination area can be provided. Alternatively a dog walker or doggy day care may need to be considered. If the guardian cannot accommodate the dog’s decreased control, installing a doggy door, or providing a papered area may be necessary.

When age related cognitive decline is suspected, a drug trial with l-deprenyl may be useful in conjunction with retraining techniques.

How can separation anxiety be treated?

To try and differentiate house-soiling from separation anxiety, it may be necessary for the guardian to keep records of when the elimination occurs. If the elimination takes place when the guardian is gone, or the dog is prevented from being near the guardian, separation anxiety should be considered. If the house-soiling dog exhibits separation anxiety, treatment should be directed not only at re-establishing proper elimination habits, but also at the underlying separation anxiety. Drug therapy may be useful in those cases where anxiety is a contributing factor. It should be noted that punishment at homecoming is not only useless for correcting a problem that has occurred during the guardian’s absence, but also serves to add to the pet’s anxiety during future departures and homecomings.

How can submissive and excitement urination be treated?

For submissive urination, it is important that the guardians and all visitors interact with the pet in a less dominant or threatening manner. The pet should be allowed to approach the guardian. Kneeling down and speaking softly, rather than standing over the dog and petting the chest instead of the head, may help reduce submissive responses. Physical punishment and even the mildest verbal reprimands must be avoided. In fact, guardians who attempt to punish the pet for urinating submissively will make things worse, since this intensifies fearful and submissive behavior. When greeting a very submissive dog, the guardian may initially need to completely ignore him at greeting, even to the extent of avoiding eye contact. Counter-conditioning can be very helpful in controlling submissive urination. The dog is taught to perform a behavior that is not compatible with urinating, such as sitting for food or retrieving a toy when he greets someone. If the dog anticipates food or ball playing at each greeting, he is less likely to eliminate.

For excitement urination, those stimuli that initiate the behavior should be avoided. During greetings, guardians and guests should refrain from eye contact, and verbal or physical contact until the pet calms down. Greetings should be very low key and words spoken in a low, calm tone. Counter-conditioning, distraction techniques and drug therapy might be useful. Caution must be taken to only reward appropriate competing behaviors (e.g. sit up and beg, go lie on your mat, retrieving a ball). Inappropriate use or timing of rewards might further excite the dog and serve as a reward for the excitement urination.

The use of drugs to increase bladder sphincter tone might also be considered as an adjunct to behavior therapy, for refractory cases.

Another important aspect of treating over-excitement to visitors, is repeated presentations of the stimulus so that the dog learns the correct response. If visitors come only infrequently, the dog does not have the opportunity to learn a new behavior. By scheduling visitors to come, visit briefly, then leave by another door and re-enter, the dog may learn to be less excited and/or submissive with each entrance. Each time the person returns they are more familiar and less likely to stimulate the urination behavior. This allows the dog to practice the good behavior and reinforce the appropriate response.

How can marking be treated?

Neutering will eliminate male marking behavior in over 50% of dogs and is also recommended for female dogs that mark during estrus. Confining the pet so that he is unable to watch other dogs through windows in the home may be helpful. Urine residue must be removed from around doors, windows or other areas where stray dogs have been marking. The guardian should give rewards to reinforce marking at outdoor sites where marking is permitted and marking should not be permitted anywhere else. New upright objects that are brought into the home should not be placed on the floor until the pet is familiar with them. During retraining, the guardian must closely supervise the pet and when he cannot be supervised, he should be confined to his crate or bedroom area, away from areas that have been previously marked. It might also be possible to booby trap those areas that the pet might mark. If anxiety is an underlying factor in the marking behavior, then treatment of the anxiety with desensitization and counter-conditioning may also be helpful.

Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/elimination.html

$$BABY AND DOG$$

Introducing an Infant to a Resident Dog
One of the most common questions asked of a veterinarian by an expectant parent (or grandparent) is how to introduce a new infant to the resident dog, particularly if the dog has not been exposed to infants before. Most dogs readily accept infants after a period of curiosity. There have been unfortunate incidents where infants have been injured by family dogs. It is because of these incidents that the following information is written.There are three types of dogs about which parents should be particularly concerned: those that have already manifested aggressive tendencies to babies, those that are, in general, also aggressive to adults, and those that have a history of predatory behavior, i.e., they chase and kill squirrels, birds, cats, goats, sheep or other mammals. If dogs with such histories are identified, it would be wise to consult an animal behavior therapist for advice on if and how they should manage future dog-child interactions.Fortunately, most dogs look upon a baby with curiosity and show no signs of aggression. However, some dogs perceive an infant as a strange mammal and a potential item of prey. Dogs that have never seen a baby probably do not view them as young human beings or even as small people. To help prevent accidents (sometimes fatal), some precautions should be taken.The following protocol is designed for people to follow when they wish to be especially careful in introducing a baby to an non-aggressive family dog. The procedures begin before the baby is born.Because the guardian will want to keep the dog quiet and under control when the baby is in his vicinity, the dog should reliably sit or lie down on command, and remain that way unless permitted to get up, regardless of other activities. He should be taught to remain calm and in a sitting position, for pleasant rewards rather than to avoid punishment. Because the commands SIT and STAY will eventually be used in conjunction with the baby, they should not be associated with punishment.Guardians should begin by teaching their dog to sit and stay for delicious tidbits. The dog is initially required to remain only for a few seconds, and this time is very gradually increased. Simultaneously, the activity level around the dog is made progressively arousing. For example, while the dog is sitting, the person takes a step backward and then forward and then rewards the dog, if he is still sitting. Next, the guardian takes two steps backward, returns to the dog, takes a step to the side, then two steps to the side, etc. Gradually the guardian extends the range and speed of activities, moving across the room, sitting down, standing up, rattling door knobs, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and not accompanying the guardian on these sojourns.After the dog has demonstrated he can remain seated while the guardian performs numerous, rapid activities, the guardian may then begin simulating activities that will occur with the baby. While the dog is in a sit/stay position, the guardians can carry a dog wrapped in blankets, rock the doll in their arms, let the dog look at the doll while keeping the dog in a sit/stay position, pretend to diaper the doll, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and remaining calm as people engage in these activities. A firm NO is appropriate if the dog begins to get up when he should not. If the guardian must repeatedly say NO, something is wrong with the training procedures. At no time should the guardian berate the dog with threats or hit him for getting up. The idea is to avoid associating unpleasant events (punishment) with such words as NO or STAY because the parent will later use those words to restrain the dog in the presence of the baby. The guardians should look at these practice sessions as games and not as discipline exercises.Before the baby is brought into the house, items that have been associated with the infant, such as clothing, can be brought home and the dog allowed to become familiar with the baby's odor. Initially, the dog should be permitted to sniff and smell the items as much as he wishes. Later, the guardians might have the dog sit and stay as they pick up and put down these items, carry them, etc.When the mother returns from the hospital, the dog should be allowed to greet her without the baby present. Only after the dog has calmed down should the baby be presented to the dog. Sometimes it is a good idea to keep the dog and baby separate for several hours, while allowing the dog to sniff more items of clothing and become aware of the general presence of the baby. In this manner, the dog can begin to get used to the presence of the baby in the house without actually being close enough to investigate the child. The dog can adjust to the sounds and odors of the baby.The appropriate time to introduce a baby to a dog is after the dog's excitement level has dissipated and the baby is in a quiet mood. Optimally, two people should help with the introduction, one to control and reward the dog and the other to hold the baby. The rapidity with which the procedures are carried out and the number of steps involved vary.Depending upon the exuberance of the dog, the person holding the baby may be sitting or standing. The dog should be on a leash in a sit/stay position and is rewarded with petting or praise. By this time, food rewards should no longer be necessary. Gradually, dog and baby are brought closer together. The dog should be allowed to see the baby but remain in a sitting position. As long as the dog is quiet, he should be allowed to remain nearby until it is necessary to move the baby or the baby becomes restless. Such introductions should be repeated several times during the first day. The dog may eventually be brought close enough so he can smell the baby, but not close as to be able to bite. The guardian must use his or her own discretion as to when it is appropriate to let the dog sniff the baby closely. If after several introductions the dog is not unduly excited and can be verbally controlled, the procedures can be repeated without a leash.The next step is to allow the dog to wander loose while the guardian is with the baby. The dog should not have access to the baby in unsupervised situations. A screen door can be put on the baby's room or the dog confined to areas of the house where he does not have access to the baby in the absence of the guardina. The dog should be allowed as much freedom in the house and interaction with the adults as possible. Initially, when the parents prepare to interact with the baby in the dog's presence, they should also interact with the dog in some manner. They might say "Let's go see the baby," or ask the dog to sit and pet him or give him a tidbit. Again, food rewards are not necessary every time the guardian asks the dog to sit or stay, but intermittent food rewards keep his performance level high.There are no definite guidelines as to when a dog actually accommodates to an infant and perhaps begins recognizing the child as a person. Most dogs probably adjust to the presence of the infant within a few days, while others may take several weeks. After the dog has been with the child for many hours and has become used to the child's sounds and movements (i.e., pays little attention to these activities and is not aroused by them), the parents can probably relax supervision of the dog in the presence of the child. This depends on the dog's history of aggression, particularly predatory behavior. While one cannot tell parents to relax and be totally unconcerned after the dog has had several weeks of supervised interaction with the baby, it is unlikely that an unfortunate incident would occur after that time if the dog is non-aggressive, relaxed and relatively uninterested in the baby in supervised circumstances. If the guardians are concerned, they may put a latched screen door on their baby's bedroom door or put up gates to prevent access to the child when the guardian is not there.Most incidents of dogs killing babies a few days to a few months old occur within the first few hours of the infant's presence in the home, when the dog unexpectedly comes upon the new baby in an unsupervised situation. It is believed that predatory behavior is the motivation for attacks on infants.To adjust to the presence of the infant, the dog must be gradually exposed to the infant. Initial exposures must be supervised and pleasant for the dog so he does not associate adverse events with the baby. To prevent an uncontrollable response during these exposures, the dog should have been previously trained to control himself in exciting situations.Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/babyintro.html

Allergies in the Dog

What are allergies, and how do they affect dogs?

One of the most common conditions affecting dogs is allergy. In the allergic state, the dog's immune system overreacts to foreign substances (allergens or antigens) to which he is exposed. These overreactions are manifested in three ways. The most common is itching of the skin, either localized (one area) or generalized (all over the dog). Another manifestation involves the respiratory system and may result in coughing, sneezing, and/or wheezing. Sometimes, there may be an associated nasal or ocular (eye) discharge. The third manifestation involves the digestive system, resulting in vomiting or diarrhea.

Are there several types of allergies?

There are five known types of allergies in the dog: contact, flea, food, bacterial, and inhalant. Each of these has some common expressions in dogs, and each has some unique features.

Contact Allergy

Contact allergy is the least common of the five types of allergy. They result in a local reaction of the skin. Examples of contact allergy include reactions to flea collars or to types of bedding, such as wool. If the dog is allergic to such substances, there will be skin irritation and itching at the points of contact. Removal of the contact irritant solves the problem. However, identifying the allergen can require some detective work.

Flea Allergy

Flea allergy is common in dogs. A normal dog experiences only minor irritation in response to flea bites, often without any itching. On the other hand, the flea allergic dog has a severe, itch-producing reaction when the flea's saliva is deposited in the skin. Just one bite causes such intense itching that the dog may severely scratch or chew himself, leading to the removal of large amounts of hair. There will often be open sores or scabs on the skin, allowing a secondary bacterial infection to begin. The area most commonly involved is over the rump (just in front of the tail).

The most important treatment for flea allergy is to get the dog away from all fleas. Strict flea control is the backbone of successful treatment. Unfortunately, this is not always possible in warm and humid climates, where a new population of fleas can hatch out every 14-21 days. When strict flea control is not possible, corticosteroids (or cortisone or steroids) can be used to block the allergic reaction and give relief. This is often a necessary part of dealing with flea allergies. Fortunately, dogs are more resistant to the side-effects of steroids than humans; so much of what you know about the side-effects in people do not apply to dogs. If a secondary bacterial infection occurs, appropriate antibiotics must be used.

Bacterial Allergy

There are many types of Staphylococcus (Staph) bacteria. Some cause severe disease and some do not. There are several species of Staphylococcus bacteria that live on normal dog skin. If the skin is normal and the dog's immune system is normal, Staph causes no problems to its host. However, some dogs develop an allergy to this bacterium. When this happens, the dog develops areas of hair loss that look much like ringworm. They are often round and 1/2 to 2 inches (1-5 cm) in diameter. These same lesions develop in true Staph infection; they are easily treated with certain antibiotics, but the Staph-allergic dog has recurrent "Staph infections." The lesions will usually clear with appropriate antibiotics but return as soon as antibiotics are discontinued. After a while, some dogs become resistant to antibiotic treatment.

Treatment of Staph allergy involves antibiotics to control the immediate problem and desensitization with Staph antigen for long-term relief.

Inhalant Allergy

The most common type of allergy is the inhalant type, or atopy. Dogs may be allergic to all of the same inhaled allergens that affect humans. These include tree pollens (cedar, ash, oak, etc.), grass pollens (especially Bermuda), weed pollens (ragweed, etc.), molds, mildew, and the house dust mite. Many of these allergies occur seasonally, such as ragweed, cedar, and grass pollens. Others are around all the time, such as molds, mildew, and house dust mites. When humans inhale these allergens, we express the allergy as a respiratory problem; it is sometimes called "hay fever." The dog's reaction, however, usually produces severe, generalized itching. In fact, the most common cause of itching in the dog is inhalant allergy.

Most dogs that have inhalant allergy react to several allergens. If the number is small and they are the seasonal type, itching may last for just a few weeks at a time during one or two periods of the year. If the number of allergens is large or they are present year-round, the dog may itch constantly.

Treatment depends largely on the length of the dog's allergy season. It involves three approaches:

1. Anti-inflammatory. Anti-inflammatory therapy will dramatically block the allergic reaction in most cases. Steroids (cortisone) may be given orally or by injection, depending on the circumstances. If steroids are appropriate for your dog, you will be instructed in their proper use. Antihistamines can be of value in treating some allergic dogs when they are combined with steroids. In some dogs, antihistamines can significantly decrease the amount of steroid needed to provide relief. Fatty acid supplementation can also be implemented with steroids and antihistamines. When the three of them are combined, some allergic dogs are significantly improved. This is a non-specific approach, which does not treat the allergy, only the complications of the allergic state (itching).

2. Shampoo therapy. Many dogs are helped considerably by frequent bathing with a hypoallergenic shampoo. It has been demonstrated that some allergens may be absorbed through the skin. Frequent bathing is thought to reduce the amount of antigen exposure through this route. In addition to removing surface antigen, bathing alone will provide some temporary relief from itching and may allow the use of a lower dose of steroids.

3. Hyposensitization. The third major form of allergy treatment is hyposensitization with specific antigen injections (or allergy shots). Once the specific sources of allergy are identified, very small amounts of the antigen are injected weekly. The purpose of this therapy is to reprogram the body's immune system. It is hoped that as time passes, the immune system will become less reactive to the problem-causing allergens. If hyposensitization appears to help the dog, injections will continue for several years. For most dogs, a realistic goal is for the itching to be significantly reduced in severity; in some dogs, itching may completely resolve. Generally, steroids are only used on a brief and intermittent basis. This therapeutic approach is recommended for the middle-aged or older dog that has year round itching caused by inhalant allergy. This approach is not successful with food allergy.

Although hyposensitization is the ideal way to treat inhalant allergy, it does have some drawbacks and may not be the best choice in certain circumstances and for these reasons:

1. Cost: This is the most expensive form of treatment.

2. Age of the Patient: Because many dogs develop additional allergies as they get older, young dogs may need to be retested 1-3 years later.

3. Success Rate: About 50% of dogs will have an excellent response. About 25% get partial to goodresponse. About 25% get little or no response. The same statistics are true for people undergoing desensitization.

4. Food Allergies: Although tests for food allergy are available, the reliability of the test is so low that it is not recommended at this time. A food trial remains the best diagnostic test for food allergy.

5. Time of Response: The time until apparent response may be 2-5 months, or longer - a year or more. 6. Interference of steroids: Dogs must not receive oral steroids for two weeks or injectable steroids for six weeks prior to testing; these drugs will interfere with the test results.

Food Allergy

Dogs are not likely to be born with food allergies. More commonly, they develop allergies to food products they have eaten for a long time. The allergy most frequently develops in response to the protein component of the food; for example, beef, pork, chicken, or turkey. Food allergy may produce any of the clinical signs previously discussed, including itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress. Veterinarians recommend testing for food allergy when the clinical signs have been present for several months, when the dog has a poor response to steroids, or when a very young dog itches without other apparent causes of allergy. Testing is done with a special hypoallergenic diet. Because it takes at least eight weeks for all other food products to get out of the system, the dog must eat the special diet exclusively for 8-12 weeks (or more). If positive response occurs, your vet will instruct you how to proceed. If the diet is not fed exclusively, it will not be a meaningful test. This cannot be overemphasized. If any type of table food, treats or vitamins are given, these must be discontinued during the testing period. There may be problems with certain types of chewable heartworm preventative, as well. Your veterinarian will discuss this with you.

Because dogs that are being tested for inhalant allergy generally itch year round, a food allergy dietary test can be performed while the inhalant test and antigen preparation are occurring.


SPECIFIC VETERINARY INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY RECEIVE:
Instructions which may be specific for your dog

___ 1) An injection of steroids was given. Relief should be apparent within 12-24 hours. If not, please call your veterinarian. The dog should feel better and itch less for about one month. If an increase in water consumption or urination occurs, please report this to your vet for future reference. (These side-effects are common with steroid administration and will go away in a few days without treatment.) Return for further evaluation when the first signs of itching recur.

___ 2) Begin oral steroids when the first signs of itching return. Give ____ tablets every other morning. Adjust the dosage upward or downward to the lowest effective dose, with a maximum dose of __________ permitted. Stop giving the medication every 4-6 months to see if there are times of the year when therapy is not needed. Report any increase in water consumption to your vet at once.

___ 3) Your vet may have dispensed oral steroid tablets. Give ____ of the ____ mg tablets every other day for 3 doses (6 days), then ____ tablets every other day for 3 more doses (6 more days). Continue this downward progression (________________________) until the first signs of itching recur. At that time, go back to the next higher level and report that level to your vet (so that he can be sure it is a safe level).

Stop giving the tablets every 4-6 months to see if there are periods of the year when they are not necessary. When itching returns, begin immediately at the maintenance dose. If that does not stop the itching, increase the dosage slightly (to a maximum of ___ tablets) for a few doses, then return to the lower dose.

Report any increase in water consumption to your vet at once. (This may occur at the initial dose but should stop on the maintenance dose.)

___ 4) Your dog is to exclusively eat a hypoallergenic diet. If he will not do so readily, mix it 25:75 with the current diet for several days, then gradually increase the special diet to 100%. If this does not work, contact your vet for an alternative plan. Discontinue any chewable treats or vitamins, including heartworm preventatives. (There is a heartworm prevention product available in a non-chewable tablet that should be substituted.) Table food is not allowed. Offer only distilled water to drink, if that is possible.

___ 5) Your dog has a flea allergy or has enough fleas to make the other allergy problem worse. Flea control is very important and should include treating the dog and his environment. Bear in mind that flea allergies often accompany other types of allergies, especially inhalant allergy.

___ 6) Your dog has a bacterial skin infection secondary to allergy. The following are recommended:

a) Antibiotics are to be used for the next _____ days. If the infection is not gone by the time the medication is completed, call for a refill or for a change in medication.

b) The medicated shampoo, _____________________, is to be used every _____ days. Allow the shampoo to stay in the haircoat for a few minutes before thoroughly rinsing the dog.

c) The topical medication, ___________________________________, is to be used ______ times daily for __________ days.

___ 7) Your dog has a Staph allergy. The following are recommended:

Antibiotics are to be used for the next _____ days.

The medicated shampoo, _________________________, is to be used every _____ days.

___ 8) Staph antigen injections will be given daily for 5 consecutive days beginning __________, then weekly for 3 weeks. Thereafter, weekly injections will be given by you, depending on need and response.

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Breeding Dogs and Raising Puppies

Breeding Dogs and Raising Puppies

Raising puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.

How often does a female dog come into heat?

The female dog comes into heat (estrus) about every six months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle every 8-10 months. The heat period lasts about three weeks.

What are the signs of heat?

The most notable sign of heat is vaginal bleeding. This begins about the end of the first week of estrus and lasts for about 10-14 days. Another consistent sign is swelling of the vulva. During estrus male dogs will be attracted to her. The most fertile time is considered the 10th through the 14th days of estrus; however, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day.

What should I expect during my dog's pregnancy?

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, ranges from 60 to 67 days, averaging 63 days. Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65. The only way to accurately determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of breeding. If at all possible, the breeding date(s) should be recorded. The mother should be examined three weeks after breeding to confirm her pregnancy.

A pregnant dog should be fed a puppy formulation of a premium brand of dog food for the duration of the pregnancy and through the nursing period. These diets are generally available through veterinary hospitals or pet stores. Puppy diets provide all the extra nutrition needed for the mother and her litter. If the mother is eating one of these diets, no calcium, vitamin, or mineral supplements are needed. The puppy formulation is necessary to provide the extra nutrients for pregnancy and nursing.

During pregnancy, the mother's food consumption will often reach 1½ times her level before pregnancy. By the end of the nursing period, it may exceed two times the pre-pregnancy amount. Do not withhold food; increasing the number of feedings per day is helpful in allowing her to eat enough for her needs and those of the puppies.

What should I do to prepare for whelping?

From the time of breeding, many dogs show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention. Some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomition (morning sickness), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.

During the latter stages of pregnancy, the expectant mother begins to look for a secure place for delivery. Many become uncomfortable being alone and will cling closely to the guardian. At the onset of labor, many nervously seek a place to make the "nest" or birthing place. If the dog is attached to her guardian, she will not want to be left alone at the time of delivery. If left alone, she may delay delivery until the guardian returns.

Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a secluded corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and so you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide a private hiding place for the expectant and delivering mother and will absorb the birthing fluids. The upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

What happens during labor and delivery?

Most dogs experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers should be attended by their guardians until at least one or two puppies are born. If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary, although it is desirable. If the guardian elects to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box.

The signs of impending labor generally include nervousness and panting. The dog will often quit eating during the last 24 hours before labor. She will also usually have a drop in rectal temperature below 100ºF (37.8ºC). The temperature drop may occur intermittently for several days prior to delivery, but it will usually be constant for the last 24 hours.

Delivery times will vary. Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours. Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times. English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekinese puppies tend to have sizable heads that make delivery more difficult. It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy. Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labor stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born. If labor does not resume within a few hours after the delivery of the first puppies, examination by a veterinarian is advised. If labor is interrupted for twenty-four hours or more, veterinary assistance should definitely be obtained.

Puppies are usually born head first; however, breech presentations, in which the puppy is delivered tail-end first, occur about 40% of the time and are also considered normal. Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta (afterbirth). The placentas usually pass after the puppies are born. Any that do not pass will disintegrate and pass within 24-48 hours after delivery. It is normal for the mother to eat the placentas.

If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose. This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing; it also dries the newborn's haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about ¾ to 1 inch (1½ to 2 cm) from the body. Next, she will eat the placenta.

If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery. A dampened gauze or thin wash cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet. When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e., toward her rear feet) direction. If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is probably lodged. A veterinarian's assistance must be sought without delay.

It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies. First-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so. If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene. The puppy's face should be wiped with a damp wash cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with a soft, warm towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. The umbilical cord should be tied with cord (i.e., sewing thread, dental floss) and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about ½ inch (1 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box.

Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration. This fluid can be removed by the following procedure. First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy's face should be cradled between the first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red. A bluish colored tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signaling that the swinging procedure should be repeated.

It may be helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. (A towel can be warmed in a microwave oven.) After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, he should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery. Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle may be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source. Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.

Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box. The box should be lined with soft bedding prior to the puppies' return. The mother should accept the puppies readily and recline for nursing.

The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery and to check the newborn puppies. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production.

The mother will have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery. If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinarian for possible problems.

What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian. Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:

1) Twenty minutes of intense labor occurs without a puppy being delivered.

2) Ten minutes of intense labor occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal.

3) The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.

4) The mother's body temperature exceeds 103ºF (39.4ºC) (via a rectal thermometer).

5) Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.

Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision.

Is premature delivery a likely problem?

Occasionally, a mother will deliver a litter several days premature. The puppies may be small, thin, and have little or no hair. It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the mother. Puppies that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or stomach tube. The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from a veterinarian. Premature puppies must be kept warm. The mother can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them. If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating pad, or hot water bottle. Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be controlled. The temperature in the box should be maintained at 85º to 90º F (29.4º to 32.2º C), but the box should be large enough so the puppies can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable.

Is it likely that one or more puppies will be stillborn?

It is not uncommon for one or two puppies in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn puppy will disrupt labor, resulting in dystocia. At other times, the dead puppy will be born normally. Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not easily determined without an autopsy that includes cultures and the submission of tissues to a pathologist. This is only recommended in special circumstances.

Additional breeding and puppy links:
Orphaned Puppies

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.Dog Health Care

Any health care links located here are NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your dog to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your dog's symptoms with any of your concerns about the dog's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your dog's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.DISCLAIMER: The information found on the Dog Health Care pages may not be applicable to your dog's health condition or disease. Veterinary treatment should be addressed by the veterinarian of your choice. P&PI shall not have any liability for the content or any errors or omissions in the information provided on this web site.

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Veterinary Information for Dog Owners

We have compiled veterinary information pertaining to dogs at this site. We hope it will be useful to you. We add to the information on a regular basis. As time goes on, we hope to make it a more and more valuable resource for dog owners seeking information on veterinary medicine. In many cases we have left the original question and answer format - feeling that the dialogue is helpful . Please do not use our site to attempt to diagnose or treat your pet. Your veterinarian is the best source of health advice for an individual pet. Please do use our site to become better informed about the medical problems your pet may have. We will do our best to ensure that information presented is accurate and up-to-date. The most current information will be at the top of each page. Remember that veterinarians often disagree about the best treatments for pets. There are often several perfectly acceptable ways to treat the same condition. Just ask a lot of questions! For a complete listing of our sites medical and behavioral problems in dogs - please see The Alphabetical Index of Dog Healthcare Information - This is our main information site organized in many different topic pages.

West Nile Virus in Horses

West Nile virus (WNV) has become endemic in the United States and is here to stay. Since its first occurrence in New York in 1999, migrating birds have spread the virus throughout the United States and Canada.
In the United States there were 15,257 equine cases and 4,156 human cases in 2002, 4,636 equine cases and 9,306 human cases in 2003, and 1,314 equine cases and 2,470 human cases in 2004.
In Michigan there were 341 equine cases and 644 human cases (51 deaths) in 2002, 9 equine cases and 19 human cases (2 deaths) in 2003, and 21 equine cases and 16 human cases in 2004.
The equine mortality rate continues to be about 30 percent. The fatality rate in people is reported to be around 10-15 percent. For all species, those at greatest risk are the young, the old, and those with compromised immune systems.
Typically, horses and people are considered ‘dead-end hosts,’ i.e., they do not act as a source of infection for others; however, transmission of the virus in humans through blood transfusions, organ transplants, and across the placenta has occurred. These routes, especially blood transfusions, should be considered with horses.
Most other species develop an immune response without becoming ill, except for rare cases where the animal’s immune system is compromised.
Although the disease has been reported in a variety of other species, such as dogs, wolves, llamas, and squirrels, it has been found that most of the animals that contracted WNV already had health issues.
However, WNV has been found to be a huge problem with otherwise healthy alligators in the southern United States.
It is important to remember that most horses (and people) bitten by WNV-infected mosquitoes don’t become ill.
Those horses that do are most likely to exhibit clinical signs that are neurological in nature. Muscle fasciculations (muscle twitching) seem to be one of the most common signs. Additional signs that may be seen are incoordination, muscle weakness, fever, somnolence (sleepiness), inability to eat and drink, recumbency, and seizures.
Unlike Eastern equine encephalitis and Western equine encephalitis which have a very low survival rate, horses clinically affected by WNV appear to have a 65 percent chance of recovery and return to normal function when treated.
However, a recent study in Minnesota has shown that it may take several months for some horses to recover and that some horses may have persistent neurological deficits.
Once a horse has been infected with the WNV and survived, it is protected from development of clinical disease for an extended period of time.
There is no specific treatment. Horses that are clinically infected are treated by supportive measures, such as IV fluids, control of fever, and safe, quiet housing. Prevention remains the best practice to follow.
The horses that remain able to stand or are able to stand with assistance usually make a complete recovery over several weeks to months. Those horses that become recumbent have a guarded prognosis for survival.
Management of recumbent horses is very difficult and costly. Often horses are required to be euthanized for humane reasons even with an owner committed to treatment.
Vaccination is recommended for all equids--horses, donkeys, and mules. There is no evidence that vaccination is related to pregnancy loss or birth defects.
Fort Dodge has two products available. The WNV vaccine and a combination vaccine where WNV is combined with EEE, WEE, and tetanus.
Vaccination recommendations for previously unvaccinated horses are to give two doses of vaccine three to six weeks apart. It takes about four weeks after the second dose (i.e. the booster vaccination) for maximum protection to occur.
A new DNA vaccine for WNV from Merial is also available.
If the vaccinations are started after an outbreak, it is advised to give the booster after only two weeks time. If horses are exposed to mosquitoes for more than six months per year, most veterinarians are recommending a booster every six months.
In addition, Fort Dodge has recommended that previously vaccinated horses that receive a booster in early spring get another booster in July. The vast majority of cases across the country occur in August and September.
Research shows the efficacy of both vaccines to be about 95 percent; a few horses that were vaccinated according to manufacturer recommendations prior to WNV exposure have developed WNV.
Also, research by the vaccine manufacturer has demonstrated that the majority of properly vaccinated horses do not appear to develop a viremia (the vaccine prevents the virus from replicating in the animal’s body).
At present, recommendations for reducing the risk of your horse developing WNV include proper vaccination, minimizing your horse’s exposure to mosquitoes and mosquito control.
To reduce mosquito exposure, stable horses at dusk and dawn; use fly blankets, masks, and leg wraps; turn barn lights off; use fans to move air; and use mosquito repellents. Mosquito control programs include reduction of standing water, encouraging natural predators (fish, birds, etc.), and use of chemicals for larval and adult mosquito control.